Talk to an experienced photographer, and they’ll tell you that photography is both incredibly fun and extremely rewarding. When you’re just a beginner, however, it’s easy to become overwhelmed; after all, you have to understand so many details, covering gear, camera settings, post-processing, lighting, and more.

But don’t worry! I’ve been exactly where you are, and in this article, I offer all the beginner photography tips I wish I had when I was starting out. I share plenty of gear advice, I demystify key concepts, and I offer an array of techniques that will ensure your photos improve in leaps and bounds. Specifically, I explain:

• How to buy the right gear
• How to choose the right camera settings
• Where to start with post-processing
• Much, much more!

Are you ready to jumpstart your photography hobby? Let’s dive right in!

1. Research gear (but don’t go overboard)

Your gear does not make you a good photographer.

In fact, if you are just starting out, a top-of-the-line camera will not only be a waste of money, but it will also make your learning process trickier. (Purchasing an expensive camera as a beginner is a bit like buying a race car to learn to drive).

When you want to buy gear – whether it’s your first camera/lens/accessory or your tenth – do your research. It’s helpful to take a look at some photography forums or articles for camera recommendations. Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read professional and user reviews to determine whether it’ll satisfy your needs. That said, I do have some recommendations:

2. Buy an interchangeable lens camera

You can capture amazing photos with any camera, but certain models will offer greater flexibility (not to mention better image quality). Smartphone cameras and point-and-shoot models are perfectly capable, but they lack one key feature: interchangeable lenses.

You see, DSLRs and mirrorless cameras allow you to swap out various lenses as you shoot, which makes a huge difference, especially if you enjoy photographing multiple subjects. You can use a wide-angle lens to capture a beautiful scenic shot, switch to a telephoto lens to create a tighter composition, then try out a super-telephoto lens for an ultra-close image of a bird as it flies through the landscape.

Of course, each lens does cost money, but there are reasonably priced models designed specifically for beginners. And one of the benefits of interchangeable lens cameras is that you can always upgrade your lenses – while keeping the same camera – as you become more serious.

Which interchangeable lens camera should you buy? The specifics aren’t really important, but you can get great results from an entry-level mirrorless model like the Nikon Z 30, the Sony a6400, or the Canon EOS R50.

3. Use your kit lens often (but upgrade it as needed)

When you purchase an interchangeable lens camera, it will likely come with a zoom lens, which is also referred to as a kit lens. Many serious photographers are critical of kit lenses, but I’d really recommend using your kit model frequently before splurging on additional glass.

For one, kit lenses are designed to handle many different subjects, so you can use one to really explore an array of different photographic genres and techniques. Plus, because kit lenses span commonly used focal lengths – including 28mm, 35mm, and 50mm – you can use a bit of kit lens practice to identify the focal lengths that really feel right to you.

From there, you can make informed decisions about purchasing additional lenses!

4. Consider investing in a tripod

Once you have a camera and a lens, there’s just one more equipment item that I’d urge you to consider: a tripod.

A tripod will keep your camera stable so you can capture sharp photos even in extremely dark conditions. It can be a huge asset in many different photographic genres, including landscape photography, architecture photography, product photography, and wildlife photography.

Now, tripods can be a bit cumbersome to work with, and they’re not right for every photographer. (Street shooting, for instance, is rarely done with a tripod!) But unless you know for certain that you’d never use one, I’d really encourage you to invest in a solid yet lightweight model and see what you think!

5. Take lots of photographs

“Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

As with any skill, the more you practice, the better you get. So the quickest way to get better? Simply head out with a camera and start taking pictures.

Of course, knowledge does matter, but there’s something essential about holding a camera in your hands, looking through the viewfinder, and considering different compositions. Aim to spend at least a few hours every week behind the lens (and more is better!). It doesn’t necessarily matter what you shoot – as long as you’re shooting, you’re improving.

And don’t beat yourself up if your shots don’t turn out the way you’ve envisioned. Part of photography is about failing repeatedly; over time, you’ll learn how to get the result you want, and you’ll come home with more and more keepers.

6. Read the manual

Camera manuals are quite possibly the most boring thing you have ever read in your life, and reading the camera manual is certainly the most boring thing you’ll ever do in pursuit of photographic improvement.

That said, I suggest you do it anyway.

Why? It’s important to know how your camera actually works, especially in the beginning. And the information will become useful down the line, too. You’ll be out in the field and you’ll want to know how to change a particular setting; if you’ve read the manual thoroughly, you’ll be able to figure it out on the fly. On the other hand, if you haven’t read the manual, you’ll be forced to look up instructions on your phone, and by then your photo opportunity will likely have disappeared.

Of course, you don’t need to read the manual all at once. I recommend you place it where you can push through in small installments while you are killing time, such as in the bathroom, in the car, or in your desk at work.

7. Learn about composition

Composition refers to the way you arrange different elements in your photos. (For instance, do you place your main subject right in the middle of the frame? Do you place it in the corner? Or do you place it somewhere in between?)

And if you can understand how to create balanced compositions, your images will improve in leaps and bounds.

Why? The better your compositions, the more pleasing your images will appear – and the easier it’ll be to capture stunning shots of even the most boring subjects.

One way to delve into composition is through experimentation. Just find a subject (e.g., a flower), then capture lots of images from different positions and evaluate the results. But I’d also recommend reading about the basic composition rules, which will certainly help you successfully frame your shots.

8. Don’t start with workshops

So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooh! I’ll sign up to a bunch of workshops; that way, I can improve really fast.”

And workshops are great. But they tend to be geared more toward enthusiasts – photographers who understand the basics and are looking to level up their skills in composition, lighting, and advanced techniques. That’s why I don’t recommend going nuts with workshops right away. Instead, you should really start with the basics:

• How to operate your camera
• The meaning of different photography terminology
• How to determine the proper settings for the situation

Fortunately, you’ve already taken a step in the right direction, because you are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on the internet. There are more tips and tutorials on this site than you will ever need, especially for a beginner. Once you get the hang of things, then you’ll have a better idea of the type of workshops that would suit you, and you might consider that route.

So I’m not saying that you shouldn’t do a workshop – just that you should wait until you know what suits your needs.

9. Connect with other photographers

Learning photography with others is often invaluable – whether you join an online group or you head to a local camera club.

For one, your photography will progress faster, plus it will be far more fun with the help of your fellow shutterbugs.

Camera clubs often have monthly competitions and may organize photo tours, exhibitions, and other activities. Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners will not only inspire you but also keep you motivated.

Also, sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages, or even reach out to photographers you admire. Most professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions as long as you are respectful, polite, and don’t demand too much of their time.

10. Try everything

This piece of advice is short and sweet.

While you may have taken up photography with a certain genre or subject in mind, it can be helpful to try all genres. You never know what you might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.

So shoot landscapes. Shoot portraits. Head out to the streets and do some urban photography. Find a beautiful flower and photograph close-ups.

You never know; you might find a genre that you absolutely love but hadn’t previously considered.

11. Get feedback

Your friends and family may love you, but they will lie to you about your photography (and they may not even know what to look for). Unless you have a very honest friend or family member who actually knows a bit about art, it’s often more beneficial to get feedback from strangers.

Joining a photo-sharing site where others can comment on your work will get you mostly honest feedback (sometimes brutally so). Years back, I posted the image below on a feedback site. I knew the image had faults, but I was keen to hear what someone else could point out and how they could help me improve.

Well, one fellow submitted a lengthy comment, basically pulling the image apart. He pointed out what seemed like several million faults, and he really went to town on it. But while the comments were painful and borderline unkind, it was useful advice that I could then apply to my next portrait photo shoot.

12. Look at tons of photos

Photography has been around for nearly two centuries, and in that time, practitioners have created billions of images. Many of these photos are bad, but quite a few of them are very good – and by looking at these shots, you can learn from the best of the best.

I’d encourage you to view a handful of photos every single day, no matter what. You can look on Instagram, on a website like 500px, or on photographers’ websites. The key is to find some beautiful images, then spend time absorbing them to the best of your ability. (As you view each file, ask yourself: What makes this shot special? What do I like about it? What do I dislike? How did the photographer use lighting, composition, and other techniques to create a pleasing effect?)

You might also consider heading to your local library and checking out some books created by classic photographers. Sure, viewing contemporary photography is great, but there’s also plenty to be learned from the past!

13. Enter free competitions

If you have money to spend and confidence in your work, by all means, enter some of the big competitions – even as a beginner. You wouldn’t be the first to take a major prize within the first few months of picking up a camera.

Even if you don’t want to spend money to enter competitions, there are plenty of free options. Throw in some images, see how the contest goes, and hey – maybe you’ll win!

14. Test out different lighting scenarios

Lighting is a key component of photography. In fact, lighting can make or break your images, which is why this beginner tip is so important.

When you’re just starting out, it’s essential that you really develop your sense of lighting. In other words, you want to be able to tell the difference between various types of outdoor lighting scenarios and how they affect your photos.

So carefully watch the cloud cover and the time, and make sure you photograph in many different situations. Shoot at dawn and dusk, at high noon, and on heavily overcast days. Then head back home and carefully evaluate the files on your computer. Ask yourself: How does each image look? How do the type and direction of light alter the shadows, the mood, and the effectiveness of each shot?

15. Aim to get off Auto mode

If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital.

Because while Auto mode is useful enough when you’re just getting started, it’ll eventually hold you back, and it’ll certainly prevent you from realizing your full potential.

You don’t need to rush, though. At first, just enjoy photographing, even if that means using Auto mode all the time.

Then slowly move up the ladder as you familiarize yourself with Program mode, Aperture Priority mode, and eventually Manual mode.

In truth, manual settings aren’t nearly as difficult as some beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the beginning, it’ll be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and steering, all while trying not to veer off the road. But with a bit of patience and practice, it’ll become second nature.

(When you are ready to try manual settings, there are plenty of beginner guides and cheat sheets here on dPS!)

16. Get a post-processing program

To become a serious photographer, you’ll eventually need an editing program.

Why? Because these days, editing is an essential part of the photographic process. If you want your photos to look their best, then you must learn to edit.

Which post-processing program is best?

Well, there are free programs such as Darktable and GIMP, which are nice but have their limitations. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, which can be daunting for beginners. Personally, I recommend just forging ahead with Lightroom; if you intend to eventually get serious with your photography, it’s a hugely useful tool to understand, plus it’s not as difficult as it might initially seem.

Alternatively, you might consider an option such as ON1 Photo RAW or Luminar 4, both of which are slightly more beginner friendly than Lightroom yet pack a lot of power.

17. Have fun

This is the best and most important part of photography:

The enjoyment of it!

Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts or by comparing yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, keep challenging yourself, and above all, keep enjoying the fun you can have with photography!

Photography tips for beginners: final words

Hopefully, you’re now feeling inspired – and you’re ready to continue the learning process.

Photography is an adventure, and it’s a fun one, too. Sure, there will be ups and downs, but in the end, you’ll be glad you persevered!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use first? Do you have any beginner photography tips that we missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 17 Beginner Photography Tips (How to Get Started) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.

Determining the best photo-editing software isn’t about identifying the program that has the most features or is available for the cheapest price. Rather, it’s about finding the software that meets your needs and does what you want.

If you’re a casual photographer who enjoys making minor tweaks to mobile snapshots, the best editing program for you is going to be very different from a seasoned professional who makes a living from photography. It can be difficult to sort through all the available apps and programs, but this list – featuring the top 10 options on the market in 2023 – will help you select a photo editor that’s just right for you.

How to pick the best photo-editing program

As you sort through the myriad editing options available to you, there are a few general criteria to keep in mind.

If you’re a beginner, I recommend prioritizing ease of use over a laundry list of features. Look for options that are inexpensive and that let you open a photo, make some quick edits, and get back to your day. But don’t get caught up searching for the cheapest program; the editing landscape is littered with abandoned free or low-cost apps that blew up and then quickly flamed out, leaving legions of frustrated photographers in their wake.

If you’re a more advanced photographer, look for photo-editing software that’s been around for several years and boasts a broad base of users with an active online community. And while you research, check YouTube for tutorial videos and search the developer’s website for forums, FAQs, and similar materials. Not only are such items a valuable source of information and assistance, but they’re also evidence of a robust software ecosystem and developer commitment. If you’re going to invest your time and money into learning and using a program, you need to know that it will last long into the future.

1. Adobe Photoshop

Though this list of the best photo-editing programs isn’t presented in any particular order, I would be remiss if I didn’t put the granddaddy of all photo editors, Adobe Photoshop, at the top. Its very name is synonymous with image editing, and more than 30 years since it was first released, it shows no signs of slowing down. Photoshop contains more features than just about any other editing software; it also has an enormous array of tutorials, videos, message boards, social media groups, and even college-level courses to help you hone your skills.

Back in 2013, in a highly controversial move, Adobe switched to a subscription-only pricing model for Photoshop. This means that casual photographers who want to try the program can no longer make a one-time purchase but must instead subscribe to the Creative Cloud platform. Additionally, Photoshop struggles to walk a fine line between supporting users who have used the program for decades and adding new features that compete with more lightweight modern image editors. The result is an interface that, for beginner photographers, is a hopelessly confusing mess of buttons, menus, sliders, and options.

Photoshop is not for the faint of heart, but for those willing to invest significant time into learning how it works, the rewards are well worth the effort.

• Pros
• • A huge amount of tutorials and resources, both online and in print, to help you learn
• • Able to perform nearly any type of photo editing imaginable

• Cons
• • Subscription-only pricing model
• • Extensive features can confuse new users
• • Simple tasks in other image editors can involve complex steps in Photoshop

2. Affinity Photo

Professional, amateur, and hobbyist photographers who require a robust image editor with a rich set of features should look no further than Affinity Photo. While its list of capabilities isn’t quite as comprehensive as compared to editors such as Photoshop and GIMP, Affinity Photo can easily meet the needs of most folks who need to edit photos but don’t care about advanced 3D graphics or AI-enhanced tricks. It has advanced RAW processing options, supports unlimited layers, and works seamlessly with other Serif apps like Affinity Publisher and Affinity Design to give you a complete end-to-end graphics-creation workflow solution.

I’ve used the entire Serif software suite for years, and I’ve found it to offer a fantastic alternative to more popular commercial counterparts. While my image editing needs aren’t as advanced as full-time professional photographers, I have not yet encountered a scenario that Affinity Photo could not handle. Best of all, it’s available as a one-time purchase – not a subscription – which should benefit many casual and enthusiast photographers who can’t quite commit to monthly or yearly software fees.

• Pros
• • Rich set of features to handle the needs of most photographers
• • Supports Wacom and other tablets, which are often used for detailed editing and retouching
• • One-time purchase instead of a subscription

• Pros
• • Not as comprehensive as Adobe Photoshop

3. Pixelmator Photo

Photography purists might balk at the inclusion of a mobile-only app in this list, but there’s no getting around the fact that the iPhone is one of the most popular cameras in the world. And Pixelmator Photo is a full-featured, desktop-class image editor that gives iPhone users the ability to do Photoshop-style editing on small screens for a very reasonable price.

It’s important to set expectations before buying Pixelmator Photo. It’s a far cry from Photoshop, so don’t expect a beyond-comprehensive editing suite – yet it still has plenty of tools for hobbyists and even serious photographers who want to use a mobile phone to do high-level image editing. Its feature set ranks somewhere between Lightroom and Photoshop; it’s also very easy to use and features a rich library of tutorials and walkthroughs. Pixelmator Photo does require a small subscription fee, but unlike other mobile editing apps, you can purchase a lifetime subscription for under $60.

• Pros
• • Brings powerful photo editing to mobile phones
• • One-time purchase option for those who don’t want subscription fees
• • Machine-learning algorithms help with many editing tasks

• Cons:
• • iPhone only, which leaves Android users out in the cold
• • Similar set of tools as Lightroom Mobile, so if you’re already subscribed to Lightroom, Pixelmator Photo might not be worth it
• • Free version is very limited

4. GIMP

For photographers on a budget, it’s hard to choose a better editing program than GIMP. Despite the odd name (which stands for Gnu Image Manipulation Program), this program has a bevy of features and options that come for the best price anyone could ask for: nothing at all. (In other words, GIMP is free!)

But don’t conflate cost with quality. There is plenty in GIMP to satisfy the most demanding photographers; in fact, its toolset is so rich and expansive it can easily overwhelm new users. But for those willing to invest some time into learning the ins and out of this program, it’ll yield impressive results.

GIMP has been developed by members of the open-source community for decades, and in that time, it’s evolved to meet the needs of modern photographers while staying true to its core mission: giving people of all skill levels a powerful suite of editing tools. The layer-based interface will feel comfortable to longtime Photoshop users, and editing options include brushes, paths, text, warp transform, various selection tools, and more.

While GIMP is notoriously difficult to learn and some actions are much slower than you might expect, you can’t beat the price – it’s one area where GIMP stands head and shoulders above almost every other program on this list!

• Pros
• • Free and available on Mac, Windows, and even Linux computers
• • Incredible set of editing features, enough to rival most commercial image editors
• • Extensive online resources for help and support

• Cons:
• • The interface is somewhat complicated and takes time to learn
• • Some actions are very slow, especially compared to others on this list
• • No built-in tutorials to help new users

5. Photopea

Photopea is one of those applications that almost seems too good to be true. It’s a full-featured image editor much like Photoshop, it’s free to use like GIMP, and it’s relatively easy to pick up and learn like Pixelmator. It’s also browser-based, which means there’s no software to download and install. It has all the editing tools that casual and hobbyist photographers might need, and it works with all the most common file formats, including PSD, SVG, and TIFF. You don’t even need an account to use it, so there’s literally nothing to lose by going to the Photopea website and testing it out.

That said, Photopea does come with some important caveats. While it’s relatively easy to use for those who are already familiar with image editors, the many buttons, tools, and menus will likely overwhelm beginners. There’s also no support for 3D objects, and while Photopea is astonishingly impressive from a technical standpoint, it’s much slower than the competition. Granted, it’s a free image editor that you can use from any browser, but don’t expect the same performance as other programs.

• Pros
• • Browser-based, which means you won’t need to install any software or download any apps
• • Supports all the common image-editing tools as well as many advanced options
• • The free version has very few limitations, while the subscription version is reasonably priced and even includes cloud storage

• Cons:
• • Slow compared to dedicated programs such as Photoshop and Luminar
• • No artificial intelligence or machine-learning tools to speed up your workflow
• • Technically possible to use on a mobile phone, but I wouldn’t recommend it

6. Pixlr E

Pixlr E is a browser-based image editor that’s similar to Photopea, though it boasts a slightly different design philosophy. The program offers an impressive array of tools and options, but the interface should appeal to more casual and hobbyist photographers.

It’s incredibly simple to get started: Just navigate to the Pixlr website, click the “Start a Photo Editing Project” option, upload an image, and begin your editing. Everything you do takes place right in your browser window, which means you’ll never need to worry about software installations (though there are downloadable offline apps available) or app updates.

The tradeoff is a lower level of functionality and a more simplistic design compared to the heavy hitters on this list. Even so, Pixlr E is a solid option for anyone looking for a robust editing solution that won’t cost hundreds of dollars.

With many different brush options, a layer-based workflow, dozens of image filters, and even some basic animation tools, Pixlr E likely has all the power you might need to handle your image editing. But some of the more advanced options require a monthly or yearly paid subscription, and you won’t find the same level of in-depth RAW developing options compared to other programs on this list. A lack of export options also holds Pixlr E back – though for anyone who wants an impressive browser-based image editor with lots of features at a great price, Pixlr E is a great choice.

• Pros
• • Very easy to get started, which lowers the barrier to entry for beginners and new photographers
• • Fully browser-based, with some downloadable offline companion apps, too
• • The free version has a variety of useful tools and features, and the paid version is reasonably priced

• Cons
• • Few customization settings for tweaking the interface to your liking
• • The paid version has access to premium support, while the free version’s support is limited to online documentation and a relatively small community of Pixlr users

7. Skylum Luminar

Ah, Luminar. What a breath of fresh air amidst a sea of all-too-similar photo editing applications! I’ve been using Skylum’s Luminar since the company was named MacPhun, and while it’s not my particular cup of tea, it absolutely deserves serious consideration for all photographers (and especially beginner and hobbyist image-makers).

Luminar has evolved considerably over the years and works as a plugin for Lightroom and Photoshop as well as a standalone application. It’s also available as a one-time purchase, which makes it an ideal alternative to Photoshop and other subscription-only options.

Luminar’s workflow solutions and editing tools are focused on solving editing problems with artificial intelligence as opposed to giving you dozens of individual tools with pixel-level control. It’s a great program for those hoping to enhance portraits, replace the sky, remove and edit backgrounds, or even add portrait blur via automated tools, and the program’s sliders let you adjust all sorts of parameters. If you want great-looking images while letting software tools do most of the heavy lifting – so you can get away from your desk and back to using your camera – then Luminar is an outstanding pick.

• Pros
• • Amazing suite of AI-powered tools to enhance your images quickly and easily
• • Easy to import an image, click a few buttons, and get impressive results
• • Each type of edit has filters to let you tweak the results to your liking

• Cons
• • Standalone purchase option is available, but you’re encouraged to subscribe and/or purchase additional plugins
• • No fine-grained control over every element in your images
• • Limited exporting options

8. PhotoWorks

While many of the image editors on this list are available for both Mac and Windows computers, PhotoWorks is somewhat unique in that it’s available only for Windows. That puts it in a bit of a unique position in the editing world, and if you prefer Dell, HP, or Lenovo over Apple, you have access to a powerful software tool that can easily improve your photography workflow. In terms of editing options, PhotoWorks isn’t in the same league as Photoshop or Pixelmator Photo, but it’s also significantly less expensive, which makes a big difference for many people.

Rather than feature endless palettes of buttons and tools, PhotoWorks takes a more minimalistic approach. Once you import an image, you can use Lightroom-style sliders to adjust basic parameters like exposure, contrast, saturation, and vibrance (all of which will be immediately familiar to Lightroom users). You can also use sliders to adjust colors and sharpness and use one-click options to remove backgrounds, edit portraits, and more. The results are very good, especially considering the minimal amount of editing time required.

Bottom line: PhotoWorks is an impressive image editor, and the basic version is available for only $20 (while the high-end option costs just $80).

• Pros
• • The standard version is very reasonably priced and will meet the needs of many casual and hobbyist photographers
• • Features a wide variety of adjustment sliders in addition to automatic edits
• • Supports easily adding text, watermarks, and logos

• Cons
• • Editing tools are especially comprehensive compared to Photoshop
• • Can open RAW files, but the developing options could be better
• • Noise-removal tools need improvement

9. Corel PaintShop Pro

While PaintShop Pro might not have the same level of name recognition as some of its peers, photographers who use Windows computers and want an incredibly capable software tool to handle their image-editing needs would do well to consider the program. It has a rich history that goes all the way back to the early 1990s, and rather than let the software stagnate, the developers have continued to add new features to meet the needs of modern photographers; the result is a program that more than holds its own among a sea of competitors.

The user interface almost feels like an amalgam of other editing software such as Photoshop and Luminar. There are plenty of buttons and tools, including brush, crop, redeye removal, create shapes, work with lines and text, and more. You also have access to layers, masks, effects, and a powerful selection tool that will make Photoshop users feel as though they have been overpaying for their software.

Recent AI-powered additions allow you to remove backgrounds, retouch portraits, and even restore old photos with impressive results – and while PaintShop pro may not be quite as powerful or customizable as some of its peers, it’s an outstanding choice for photographers who want a powerful editor without paying for a recurring subscription.

• Pros
• • An impressive number of tools and automatic enhancements that’ll suit the needs of most photographers.
• • Supports RAW import and allows you to export in a variety of formats.
• • Multiple workspaces let you customize the editing environment to suit your individual preferences

• Cons
• • Windows-only
• • Can slow down from time to time

10. Acorn

Acorn is a Mac-only program, and in some ways, it feels like a refreshing change of pace for photographers who’ve grown weary of expensive subscriptions, hand-holding auto-enhancements, and all-in-one editors that try to do everything and end up succeeding at nothing. Acorn is essentially a Photoshop that’s been stripped down to the basics – with a price to match. For just $40, you get a layer-based image editor featuring a useful suite of tools and effects that can take your photography quite far.

The Acorn workflow feels fast and simple: Download the program, open a photo, and you’re off to the races. You can make selections, add layers, insert text, and use dozens of filters that mimic the functionality of far more expensive programs. You won’t find any artificial intelligence or cloud-based editing features, but you will get a program that more than meets the needs of beginners while also offering options that appeal to more advanced photographers.

• Pros
• • Simple and easy to use
• • Includes the most common tools from more popular image editors
• • Allows for a combination of bitmap and vector-based editing, which is ideal for image editors who also dabble in graphic design

• Cons
• • Priced similarly to Affinity Photo but with far fewer features
• • Mac only, with no iPhone or iPad option
• • Limited community support makes troubleshooting very frustrating

Which editing program is best for you?

It’s hard to identify the single best editing program. After all, every photographer has a different set of requirements! However, there are three options that stand out for beginner, enthusiast, and advanced photographers that I can recommend without hesitation:

Beginners: Pixlr E. The basic version is free to use, offers a simple and visually appealing user interface, and works with any web browser (so there are no apps to install). If you want to go beyond simply swiping through filters on your phone, Pixlr E is a great choice.

Enthusiast: Affinity Photo. This program has really come into its own over the past two years and has shown no signs of slowing down. It has a deep set of tools, a robust online community of users, and it integrates seamlessly with other Affinity apps (in case you ever want to expand your repertoire).

Advanced: Photoshop. Yes, it requires a subscription, but you get an awful lot for your money, and Adobe continues to add useful enhancements on a regular basis. Photoshop has been the gold standard for years, and with good reason. Sometimes, the most popular program really is the best.

The post The Best Photo-Editing Software in 2023 (10 Picks) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Interested in the best Lightroom alternatives for organizing and editing your photos? You’re in the right place.

Lightroom is one of the most popular photo editors and managers on the market, but it’s certainly not your only option. Below, we share our top 10 favorite alternative post-processing programs – so whether you’re a Lightroom user looking for a change or you’re a beginner researching all potential software, this article will help you out.

Our list includes free and paid options as well as programs for beginner and advanced editors. By the time you’ve finished reading, you’ll be ready to choose the best software for your needs.

1. RawTherapee

An open-source program for photo editing and management, RawTherapee is a fantastic free Lightroom alternative. It’s not difficult to use, but the interface can be off-putting if you’re used to working in Lightroom or other popular programs.

Fortunately, the learning curve isn’t especially steep (depending on your photo-editing requirements). And there’s a RawPedia full of material to help you figure out whatever you need.

RawTherapee also allows for batch editing, and it can be synced with Photoshop or GIMP if you need to do advanced photo retouching and manipulation.

If you’re interested in learning more, check out our in-depth Lightroom versus RawTherapee comparison.

Pros

• Free
• Syncs with PS and GIMP
• Windows, iOS, and Linux versions are available

Cons

• No cloud storage
• Steeper learning curve

2. Luminar

Skylum Luminar is a paid editing program that includes a photo manager. Until recently, it was only available as a one-time purchase, which could be an advantage, especially when the software was on sale. (Skylum did release new products somewhat frequently, so if you wanted to use the company’s cutting-edge software, you needed to purchase a new program every year or so.)

Now, however, Skylum has a more complicated approach to product development and sales. You can still buy the company’s Luminar AI program with a one-time payment, but it’s not the latest and greatest product. The best program, Luminar Neo, is offered as a subscription (monthly or yearly plans are available) or as a one-off purchase. But it’s not a single asset; instead, you can purchase “extensions” that are sold separately from the main software.

Regardless of your payment preferences, what’s especially important to remember is that both Luminar AI and Luminar Neo are powerful photo editors, and they also include a section where you can manage your images. The biggest difference is that Luminar AI is designed to offer easy one-click solutions for photo editing, while Luminar Neo gives you more creative control and therefore has a steeper learning curve.

Pros

• AI tools
• Easy to use
• Selective editing

Cons

• Paid
• Confusing pricing model

3. Adobe Bridge

Adobe Bridge is Adobe’s assets manager. Unlike Lightroom, it supports multiple video and audio formats, AI files, PDFs, 3D materials, etc.

To edit a photograph using Adobe Bridge, you need to install Adobe Camera Raw (ACR). It works as a plugin, so you can launch it from inside of Bridge (but you can’t open it separately).

Adobe Camera Raw has a very similar interface to Lightroom, and the features are essentially identical. It basically gives you Lightroom – and when you combine ACR with Bridge, you get a more powerful file manager.

To use Bridge, you do need an Adobe membership plan; if you decide to go this route, consider purchasing the Photography plan or the Photoshop app.

Pros

• Supports multiple file formats
• Free with any of the Adobe CC apps
• Syncs with Photoshop

Cons

• Photo editing via ACR plug-in
• Requires an Adobe membership

4. ACDSee

As far as paid choices go, ACDSee offers some of the best Lightroom alternatives you can find. The company offers multiple products to fit the needs and budgets of different types of photographers (though it may be difficult to decide which is best for you).

Whichever program you choose, you’ll gain access to solid software that offers digital asset management and photo editing. And at the time of writing, all the ACDSee editing products include Luxea Video Editor for free.

ACDSee programs are intuitive and easy to use, which makes them perfect for beginners. They also have some very powerful tools both for managing and editing, so professional photographers will be plenty satisfied. Furthermore, Lightroom users needing to migrate their photos can easily import databases from Lightroom Classic.

Pros

• Multiple solutions to choose from
• Reasonably priced
• Easy import of LR database

Cons

• Only one product for Mac
• No photo editing in the free version

5. Apple Photos

Apple Photos is free and pre-installed on every Apple device. In fact, iPhones and iPad cameras automatically upload their images to Apple Photos – but you can also import images from other cameras and devices. It supports all image formats, including RAW files, and it supports video, as well.

Apple Photos uses on-device machine learning to help you organize and filter your files. This is a great way to manage and search through your images more efficiently. You can also sync your files using Apple iCloud so that you can access them on all your iOS devices.

Photo and video editing are non-destructive, and Apple Photos offers automatic tools that you can use to fine-tune your files. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have many advanced editing features – not yet, at least. But it is continuously being updated and has greatly improved in the last few years, so who knows? Maybe it will get more professional in the future!

Pros

• Free
• iPhone Live Photos preview
• Nondestructive editing
• On-device machine learning AI tools

Cons

• Only for iOS
• Not many advanced tools

6. ON1 Photo RAW

ON1 Photo RAW is an excellent Lightroom alternative – one that’s available as either a one-off purchase or a subscription. If you go with the subscription plan, you get all the products and plug-ins, all future updates, and even cloud storage. But if you grab the program as a one-off purchase, you’ll need to pay for future updates separately.

Photo RAW is a powerful photo editor with multiple AI tools that work very well; the NoNoise AI feature is particularly impressive. You also get plenty of manual features if you want to have full control over the editing process.

The program also has management tools that allow you to organize, cull, and rate your files. It supports all RAW formats and allows you to switch to a fast preview option if you need to browse your files quickly. (You can create full-quality previews at a later time.)

Pros

• Subscription or purchase available
• Compatible with PS plugins
• Excellent NoNoise AI tool
• Free cloud storage with a subscription plan

Cons

• Paid
• Interface could be better

7. Darktable

Like many open source programs, Darktable can be overwhelming for beginners – especially those who aren’t tech-savvy. You don’t need to know coding to use the program, but when browsing resources or checking out the FAQ section of the website, you might get confused. This is mainly because you’ll come across programming terms that aren’t part of the average photographer’s vocabulary.

However, once you understand how to use Darktable, you’ll realize that it’s a very powerful software and an amazing free Lightroom alternative

You can import your photos into Darktable for easy search, rating, and tagging. The program supports all raw formats and has both basic and advanced editing features. It also offers multiple export formats and the ability to export images directly to email, Facebook, and Flickr.

Pros

• Free
• Non-destructive editing
• Available for all platforms

Cons

• Not such a friendly interface
• Steeper learning curve

8. DxO PhotoLab

DxO PhotoLab is a powerful photo editor. The management tools are more basic, but this is understandable because the Library and organizing features were only recently added.

It boasts outstanding editing tools; one of the best is the noise reduction upgrade. If you like to have full control, you’ll love the U Point technology that offers customizable Control Lines and Points for easier and more precise masking.

As I mentioned above, the management tools are on the simpler side, but you can still cull and organize your images. You can also browse them using the new dynamic search option.

Note that you receive a free copy of PhotoLab 5 with the purchase of the (outstanding) Nik Collection.

Pros

• AI tools
• Nik collection plugins
• U Point technology for precise selective editing

Cons

• Paid
• Management tools could be better
• Confusing pricing model

9. Capture One

Capture One is an incredible Lightroom alternative, but be warned: It’s not targeted at beginners. It costs more, it offers full control over every step of the workflow, and it has very few auto or one-click features.

Capture One’s management capabilities allow you to efficiently cull and organize your images. You can also create smart albums, export photos in different formats to different locations, and preview the export recipe before processing.

You can use Capture One for wireless tethered shooting with compositional overlays. It’s possible to customize your workspace and make annotations on your images. The software is jam-packed with editing tools and the results are very high quality.

Pros

• Subscription or one-time purchase available
• Includes tethered shooting
• Customizable workspace and workflow
• Solutions for businesses and teams

Cons

• Expensive
• Steep learning curve

10. Google Photos

Google Photos offers photo editing and management features, and for amateurs and beginner photographers, it’s a decent pick.

Thanks to the auto-backup feature that uploads directly from your gallery, it’s a great manager for smartphone photos. You can also manually upload photos from other devices using the browser version. You get 15 GB of storage for free, and you can always purchase more if you need it.

Google Photos offers basic photo editing including a one-click feature. It also has fun tools like Cinematic Moments (which animates two similar photos).

It uses AI to help you find your images by place, face detection, and more. However, it does lack professional management tools like keyword tagging.

Pros

• Free
• AI search tools
• Auto-backup from your phone
• 15 GB storage

Cons

• No longer offers unlimited storage
• No advanced editing features
• No keyword tagging

Extra alternative: Lightroom Mobile

If you’re looking for the best Lightroom alternatives because you don’t like Lightroom, then simply ignore this suggestion – but if you’re simply looking for a free alternative, then consider Lightroom Mobile, which has a (very functional) limited free version.

Although some tools are limited to paid members, the free version can handle quite a bit of editing. It also offers 2 GB of cloud storage so that you can also use it as a file manager.

Pros

• Free
• Selective editing
• Cloud storage

Cons

• Limited features
• Mobile-only
• Requires an Adobe account

Which Lightroom alternative should you choose?

Though Adobe products are very powerful tools, they’re certainly not the only game in town. As you can see, there are many valid alternatives for those wishing to switch from Lightroom (or those who simply want to avoid it from the start).

If you’re looking for a free Lightroom alternative, you have two types of programs to choose from: free and open source or free and commercial. And in the paid category, you have a choice between one-off purchases or subscriptions.

To make the right decision, make sure you balance your budget with your editing and file-management needs as well as your personal skillset.

Best Lightroom alternatives: final thoughts

Lightroom is both a photo editor and a file manager. Taking this into account, I’ve aimed to share Lightroom alternatives that include both capabilities.

Of course, if you only need editing or file-management software (or you’re willing to use separate programs for each task), then you have many more choices.

Which program do you plan to use? Why? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Best Lightroom Alternatives (Free & Paid) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

JPEG, RAW, HEIF, PSD, DNG – photographers deal with an array of image file formats, and it can get very confusing, very fast.

To help you better understand your different photography format options and to ensure that you pick the right file type for each situation, we’ve put together this comprehensive guide. And I promise: By the time you’re done reading, you’ll be able to select the perfect file format with ease.

So without further ado, let’s get started!

What are image file formats?

When you take a photo using a digital camera, your camera records image data, which then needs to be stored on your memory card, your computer, and/or your external hard drives. Each image file format is simply a different way of structuring that image data – so that your images can be easily stored, viewed, transferred, edited, and copied across devices.

Now, different file formats offer various benefits and drawbacks. Some formats are designed to compress image data so that you obtain a small image file, some are designed to save editing layers, and others are designed to be compatible across platforms. While I delve into the most commonly used formats in greater detail below, here’s a quick list:

• JPEG
• HEIF
• TIFF
• RAW
• DNG
• PNG
• GIF
• BMP
• PSD

Choosing the right file format is essential. If you select the wrong file format for the job, it can be a critical mistake (depending on the level of quality and post-processing you require).

Key photography image formats

In this section, I take you through all the essential file formats used by photographers, starting with:

JPEG

JPEG stands for “Joint Photographic Experts Group,” and it’s probably the best known out of all the image file formats. The JPEG is what many cameras set as their default output, so if you’ve never adjusted your camera’s image quality options, it’s what you’re probably using.

JPEGs are compressed at the moment of capture; therefore, when you take a JPEG, you instantly lose some image detail (and consequently store a lower-quality image). A benefit of this compression, however, is file size: JPEG is many times smaller than alternative formats (such as RAW and TIFF, discussed below). Therefore, you can generally store thousands of JPEGs on a single memory card, and you can quickly transfer JPEGs from your camera to your phone or computer.

Another big benefit of JPEGs is that they can be displayed on pretty much every browser and operating system you’ll ever encounter. You can share JPEGs over email, chat, and social media, and you’ll never run into compatibility issues.

Some cameras have options for different JPEG quality levels (e.g., low, medium, and high). The better the quality, the less compression the camera will perform on the image – though all JPEGs do feature some compression.

Generally speaking, JPEGs should be used:

• When the photos are intended for personal use, for social media, albums, and small prints (and are not intended for large prints)
• When you don’t intend to enhance or edit the photos much in post-production
• For sharing images via email or messaging apps

JPEG benefits

• The small file size means that more images can be stored on a single memory card
• You get quicker file transfer times
• JPEGs are easily displayed

JPEG drawbacks

• Loss of quality due to image compression
• Less opportunity for image manipulation in photo-editing software

HEIF

HEIF, or High Efficiency Image Format, is the newest file type on this list; the format was designed in 2015 and was soon implemented by Apple to store iPhone photos.

HEIF image files are smaller than JPEGs yet offer similar or even increased quality. In other words, HEIF files take up less space than JPEGs, yet they look equally good. Therefore, the HEIF format offers a lightweight JPEG alternative that’s perfect for rapid image transfer and efficient storage.

Unfortunately, HEIF files are far less universal than JPEGs. They cannot be easily displayed by internet browsers, which makes them a poor option for image sharing on social media and portfolio websites. And while HEIFs can be processed by a few editing programs – including Lightroom, Photoshop, Affinity, and GIMP – many programs cannot handle HEIFs, which severely limits their usefulness.

HEIF benefits

• Smaller than JPEGs
• Relatively high-quality file storage

HEIF drawbacks

• Limited compatibility

TIFF

TIFF stands for “Tagged Image File Format,” and it’s another file type that’s commonly used in the photography industry. (For instance, TIFFs are generally requested by publishers). TIFFs can be smoothly converted to JPEGs, so even if the end file format will be a JPEG, many photographers prefer to edit a TIFF.

TIFF files are usually uncompressed, so they’re extremely high quality and offer the opportunity for extensive post-processing. You can make powerful tonal adjustments and do stunning color grades to your TIFF files – but because TIFFs are feature zero compression, they are much bigger and take up a lot of space both on your memory card and on your computer.

Not all cameras offer the option to shoot in TIFF, but some do offer TIFF as their highest-quality image format. Note that TIFFs can be displayed on some – but not all! – browsers.

TIFF benefits

• You can make extensive adjustments in editing software
• TIFFs let you print at the highest quality and at much larger sizes

TIFF drawbacks

• Much bigger file sizes (so more storage is needed)
• Longer transfer and loading times due to file size

RAW

These days, most cameras offer the option to shoot in RAW, including mirrorless models, DSLRs, and even smartphones.

RAW files store all of the information originally captured by the camera – which means that adjustments to white balance, exposure, contrast, saturation, and sharpness can all be easily applied in image-editing software after the photo has been taken.

Like TIFFs, RAW files are very large and take up significant space. Unlike TIFFs, RAW files are not displayable on browsers or even computer desktops; to view a RAW file, you must use special processing software such as Lightroom, Capture One, or ON1 Photo RAW.

Simply put, RAW is the best option if you want to create the highest-quality files, so it’s the option preferred by most professional photographers. And it’s important to note that if you don’t use RAW files, then your camera will automatically adjust your images at the time of capture (and these adjustments will permanently alter the files).

Photographing in RAW requires plenty of memory cards, not to mention considerable post-processing time. It also requires some basic knowledge of image-editing software such as Adobe Lightroom because – see above! – files will have to be edited and converted before they can be printed, shared online, etc.

RAW benefits

• Image quality is outstanding
• Extensive post-processing options

RAW drawbacks

• Significant time is needed to convert and edit photos
• Bigger file sizes require more storage and longer post-processing times

DNG

These days, just about every camera uses a different proprietary format to capture RAW files. Even cameras from the same manufacturer often use different formats, which means that image editing software must be able to read a huge range of file types.

As a result, editing software providers face a challenge: They must manage and continuously provide updates for their programs so they can read each and every RAW file format.

Enter the DNG.

The DNG, or Digital Negative, was created by Adobe in an attempt to provide a standard RAW file that can be used by all manufacturers and cameras.

The DNG is offered as a main RAW file format or as an alternative to the manufacturer’s native RAW format. One of the problems with keeping images in the original RAW format is that, several years from now, you may struggle to access these files because they are specific to cameras and manufacturers. But if you convert your files to Adobe DNGs, they’ll be future-proof.

The DNG conversion does add another step in your post-processing workflow, which takes extra time. However, editing software such as Lightroom can convert large batches of files to DNGs so that you don’t need to manually convert each image.

DNG benefits

• Can be accessed by image-processing software such as Lightroom and Photoshop
• Possibly the safer long-term option because it guards against future incompatibilities

DNG drawbacks

• If your camera cannot create DNGs automatically, it takes extra time to convert camera RAW files to DNGs

PNG

Designed in the ’90s as an improvement on the GIF file format, PNG files are reasonably small, relatively high quality, and displayable on browsers – so they’re ideal for internet use.

PNGs are compressed in a lossless format and therefore retain plenty of detail for viewing and editing. But unlike many other file formats, high-quality PNGs don’t require lots of storage space; this is useful on the internet because you want images to load quickly.

The other benefit of PNG files is that they allow for partial and total transparency, which is ideal for overlays and logos.

PNG benefits

• Lossless compression offers good image quality, which isn’t compromised when editing
• PNGs can maintain transparency, which is important for graphics such as overlays and logos

PNG drawbacks

• File size is larger than JPEGs

GIF

Like PNGs, GIFs are perfect for internet use. Lossless compression means that files are small but image quality is not sacrificed, and GIF supports transparency (though it doesn’t support partial transparency, so the GIF format isn’t ideal for graphics). GIF also allows for animation.

However, GIF files can only contain a maximum of 256 colors. Therefore, GIF is not the best choice for photos, but rather for images with a limited color palette.

GIF benefits

• The small file size makes the GIF file format ideal for web use
• Files can contain animation

GIF drawbacks

• Limited colors make GIF a poor choice for photos
• GIFs don’t support partial transparency (e.g., drop shadows)

BMP

The BMP is another lossless file format; it was invented by Microsoft, initially for use on the Windows platform. However, BMPs are now recognized by Mac programs, too.

BMPs are on the larger side as color data is saved for each individual pixel without compression. As a result, BMPs produce a high-quality file that is great for printing but not ideal for sharing photos on the web.

BMP benefits

• Can be used for printing
• Images are very high quality

BMP drawbacks

• The large file size requires a lot of storage

PSD

The PSD is used by Adobe Photoshop to save data. The big advantage of the PSD is that it allows you to store edits using individual layers rather than on the image itself.

This makes PSDs ideal if you need to extensively manipulate your original photo in Photoshop. PSDs offer plenty of flexibility because layers can be added, removed, or edited at any time without affecting the original photo. And if you save an image as a PSD, you can always open it later and re-access editing layers.

But remember:

Once a layered PSD file is flattened (this essentially merges all of the layers), it can’t be undone. So if there’s a chance you might want to rework some layers later on, make sure you save your file as an unflattened PSD first.

PSD benefits

• Ability to manipulate images on separate layers
• Once the image is edited, it can be re-saved as any other file format

PSD drawbacks

• Layered files can be incredibly large due to all of the additional data

Image file formats: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all the common image file types.

As you probably realize, choosing the right file format when capturing the original photo – then choosing the right file format when saving the photo for sharing or printing – is absolutely essential.

Professional photographers generally shoot in RAW format (even if the final file will be a JPEG or TIFF), convert those files to DNGs, then edit in software such as Photoshop or Lightroom.

What’s your favorite image file format? Do you use any formats not mentioned in this article? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Image File Formats in Photography: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

Cookie photography is not just for professional food photographers. It’s a skill that comes in handy if you bake cookies to sell online, if you’re the community manager of a coffee shop and you want to share the cookies available on the menu, or if you’re an amateur food photographer looking to broaden your skills.

In this article, I’ll share some cookie photography tips that will help you improve your images without spending money on expensive gear and equipment. So if you’re ready to make your cookies look as delicious as they taste, then let’s get started!

1. Do some prep work

Cookies – even the most delicious, freshly baked cookies – won’t look perfect right from the start. Instead, if you want flawless cookie photos, you have to put in some effort.

Now, you can do this in one of two ways:

You can clean up in the studio.

Or you can fix blemishes and errors in post-processing.

I encourage you to handle as much as you can in the studio. Sure, given the power of photo-editing software, you can ignore small details and plan to fix them in post. But these fixes can take significant skill, plus they often require many hours in front of the computer.

For example, deleting fingerprints from a glass cookie jar can be a really tricky task in Photoshop. It’ll take a lot of time and effort. But cleaning the jar and handling it with gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints is much easier.

The same goes for the crumbs that will inevitably fall on the set while you’re arranging the cookies. Instead of healing each one in Photoshop – a time-consuming task! – simply use a rocket blower to clean up the area before you take your photos.

2. Try different angles

Change your perspective.

It’s something you say (or are encouraged to do) when you need a new outlook on life. And it also works when doing cookie photography, albeit in a more literal sense. Changing the angle of view can give you completely different results.

Look at the example above. Both images feature the same food styling, lighting, and camera settings. But they are completely different shots thanks to a simple perspective change.

When it comes to cookie photography, there are three main angles: top-down, straight-on, and 45 degrees. Each of these angles has its pros and cons.

The top-down angle doesn’t show much depth, but you can play with shapes and colors in the food composition. If you’re using a slower lens, it’s often the ideal perspective, because you won’t need a deep depth of field to keep the cookies sharp.

On the other hand, a straight-on angle is great for photographing stacks of cookies – yet it won’t show the cookie tops, so it doesn’t work if there’s a special decoration worth displaying.

Bottom line: Each cookie and composition can benefit from different angles of view. Don’t be afraid to experiment; when in doubt, try all possibilities to find the best one.

3. Use the ingredients for styling

As you probably know, styling is a big part of food photography in general and cookie photography in particular. It’s simple: If you want great images, you must spend time styling.

Unfortunately, some of us might not have enough budget or space to include all sorts of props and backgrounds when styling our images. But one simple way to optimize your resources? Use the ingredients from the cookie recipe as props.

If you made the cookies yourself, you should already have the ingredients with you. And even if you have to buy them extra for the shoot, you can use them later to make an extra batch of cookies!

Styling via ingredients makes for amazing images because you’re giving the viewer visual clues to how the cookies taste – thus incorporating additional senses and making your photographs even more appetizing.

4. Get close

Cookies are pretty small subjects, so food photographers are often tempted to make a cookie stack and pair it with a glass of milk or a nice table setting.

But while that can look great, don’t be afraid to get close and photograph a single cookie. After all, cookies are the heroes of the photoshoot!

Since you’re getting close, you’ll probably need to crop everything around the cookie. No problem; not everything must be fully visible inside the frame.

Learn where to crop different elements so that you get a pleasing result. And if you’re not so sure, then open the frame a little – you can always fine-tune the crop in post-processing. In fact, some programs, such as Lightroom and Photoshop, have Crop-tool composition grids to help you improve your cropping.

5. Use light modifiers

When hearing about flashes and strobes, we immediately think of softboxes, snoots, and all sorts of fancy light modifiers. But most people don’t make the same associations when thinking about natural light, and that’s a mistake.

You see, while cookie photography is mostly done with natural light, you shouldn’t let the light just fall. Instead, you should learn to control the natural light and use it to get the results you want.

And that’s where modifiers come in handy.

I took these next two images with window light. But see how different the unmodified shot looks (left) compared to the setup with a golden reflector opposite the window (right). Not only does the reflector fill the shadows, but it also adds a warm tone to the entire image, giving it a more homey feeling.

You can use diffusers to soften the light, reflectors to lift the shadows, flags to direct the light, and so much more. The key is practice (and plenty of experimentation!).

So the next time you’re doing a cookie photography photoshoot, make sure you bring some lighting accessories!

6. Use the composition rules wisely

Composition refers to the way different elements are arranged within the frame. By carefully composing your shots, you can get infinitely better results.

But how do you create stunning compositions? Well, there are simple composition guidelines that are designed to improve your images, like the rule of thirds and leading lines. These are great, but it’s important to bear in mind that, for cookie photography, some composition rules are more helpful than others.

For example, you can use the rule of odds to stack your cookies in a pile of three or five and then separate one cookie from the group. Another useful guideline emphasizes the value of patterns; because cookies are small and similar in shape, you can arrange them with a certain rhythm. (For added visual interest, try creating a pattern – and then breaking it in some conspicuous way!)

7. Don’t underestimate the importance of texture

When photographing cookies, it’s easy to focus on the big picture: The overall setup, the styling, the prepping.

But you should not neglect the little things, such as texture, which can make a huge difference to your images.

Texture plays a big part in cookie photography because it helps the viewer imagine how the cookies feel. By including texture in your shots, the viewer can practically feel what it’s like to handle the cookies – to pick them up, break them, bite them, etc.

So add texture whenever you can. Note that you can do this through lighting (sidelight is helpful, here), or by physically adding texture to the setup. For instance, take a look at this shot:

It’s one cookie on white parchment paper, and it can’t get plainer than that. But I added texture by crumbling the paper, breaking the cookie, and leaving some crumbs. Now the cookie looks (and feels!) real and edible. It suddenly becomes an authentic image, not a plain shot for an e-commerce listing.

8. Always edit your cookie photographs

At the beginning of this article, I said that you should get the setup as perfect as possible before shooting. I said that you shouldn’t rely on post-processing to fix problems.

And that’s absolutely true…

…but you shouldn’t disregard the food photography editing process, either! This applies whether you use a dedicated camera or a smartphone to capture images.

I highly recommend you shoot food photos in RAW, and if you do, you need to “develop” them using specialized software that supports RAW formats. I do my editing in Lightroom and Photoshop, but there are many other programs that offer RAW processing, including some free options like GIMP.

And even if your images are JPEGs, a few tweaks using a photo editor can make the files look far more professional.

Here are my cookie photography processing recommendations:

Start by correcting lens distortion. Then make sure all the elements and horizon lines are straight. Crop the shot to the desired aspect ratio and consider your composition rules.

Then adjust the exposure and color by calibrating the white balance, working with the shadows and highlights, etc.

You should also fix any cookie imperfections. Cookies often have cracks or small flaws that can be removed with healing tools:

Finally, if you like, apply a filter or a preset. This will help you maintain a consistent style, which is key when showcasing your cookie photography on Instagram or a portfolio website.

Cookie photography tips: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to capture some droolworthy cookie photos!

So grab your camera. Find some cookies. And get shooting!

Now over to you:

Which of these cookie photography tips do you plan to use first? Do you have any cookie shots to share? Leave your thoughts and images in the comments below!

The post 8 Cookie Photography Tips for Mouthwatering Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Have you ever noticed how some of the objects in your pictures look disproportionate or even distorted?

It’s a common photographic problem, and it’s generally due to something called lens distortion.

In this article, I explain all about lens distortion. I share:

• What causes lens distortion
• The key types of lens distortion you should know about
• How you can avoid (or correct) distortion

By the time you’ve finished, you’ll be a distortion expert – and you’ll know how to deal with any and all distortion in your photos.

Let’s get started.

What is lens distortion in photography?

Lens distortion is when elements in a picture look different from how they appear in real life.

For example, a flat subject might appear to bow outward. Or a building’s sides might compress as they extend upward.

There are several broad types of distortion, but the two most common are optical and perspective distortion:

Optical vs perspective distortion

Optical distortion is caused by the construction of your lens. Note that a lens can be plagued by three kinds of optical distortion, which I explore in greater depth below:

• Barrel distortion
• Pincushion distortion
• Mustache distortion

The focal length, the design, the number of glass elements, and other factors together determine the amount and type of optical distortion a lens will produce – so some lenses feature significant distortion, while others are completely (or nearly) distortion-free. Interestingly, some zoom lenses actually produce multiple types of distortion depending on which focal lengths you test.

Perspective distortion, on the other hand, technically isn’t lens distortion (though it often gets labeled as such). Instead, perspective distortion is created by the position of the camera in relation to the subject.

You’ve probably identified perspective distortion in your own photos, even if you didn’t know what to call it; it can get pretty obvious, especially in wide-angle, telephoto, and cityscape photography.

For example, have you ever taken a group selfie and noticed how the person closest to the camera (generally the one holding the phone) looks wider? Or have you ever taken a shot of a tall building and noticed how the building appears to get narrower and narrower as it extends up toward the sky (to the point that it seems like it might fall backward)?

Both of those effects – as well as many others – are caused by perspective distortion.

The 3 main types of optical distortion

As I mentioned above, there are three kinds of optical distortion to look for:

Barrel distortion

You know how big barrels have a narrow top and bottom but an expanded center? Well, that’s exactly what happens to straight lines in a photo with barrel distortion.

If you use a lens plagued by barrel distortion to photograph a series of lampposts, the lamps will curve outward:

Barrel distortion is one of the most common lens distortions in photography, and it generally happens when you use a wide-angle lens (or the wide portion of a zoom). Keep in mind that the shorter the focal length, the more pronounced the distortion.

(In fact, the barrel distortion in fisheye lenses is so intense that photographers use it creatively instead of trying to correct it.)

Pincushion distortion

Pincushion distortion is the opposite of barrel distortion. Instead of producing lines that bow outward, pincushion distortion pushes lines inward, like this:

You’ll notice a pincushion effect mostly when you’re photographing with a telephoto lens or when you’re using the telephoto end of a zoom.

Subtle pincushion distortion can be flattering for portraits, which is why telephoto lenses that range from 85mm to 105mm are often used by portrait photographers. But too much pincushion distortion can become problematic, so it’s always a good idea to keep an eye out for pincushion effects!

Mustache distortion

Mustache distortion is the third type of lens distortion. It combines barrel distortion and pincushion distortion for a mustache-like effect:

Unfortunately, mustache distortion is difficult to fix; fortunately, it’s also pretty rare, and if you’re lucky, it won’t affect any of your lenses.

How to avoid optical distortion

If you want to limit optical distortion in your photos, you have a few options.

First, you can photograph with a midrange focal length – nothing too wide or too long (50mm is a good place to start).

Of course, 50mm isn’t suitable for all types of photography. If you need to shoot with a wide-angle or telephoto lens, you can check test charts prior to purchasing new gear and pick lenses with the least distortion, or you can fix the distortion in post-production, which is surprisingly simple:

How to correct optical distortion during post-processing

Optical distortion is easy to deal with, and most professional and semi-professional editing software has a tool that lets you make quick corrections.

In fact, lens manufacturers generally provide software developers with lens correction data. Then, when you import an image into your editing software, the program recognizes your lens type and automatically applies distortion correction (though you’ll generally need to activate this process). Nice, right?

Here are the instructions to deal with optical distortion in a few different programs:

Lightroom

Open the Develop module, then scroll down until you find the Lens Correction panel.

Then simply tick the Enable Profile Corrections box. Lightroom will identify your lens and fix any distortion.

If Lightroom doesn’t recognize your lens or does a poor job correcting distortion, you can always click the Manual option and adjust the Distortion slider until you get a result you like.

Photoshop

If you try to open a RAW file in Photoshop, it will automatically pop up in Adobe Camera Raw; here, the interface is practically identical to Lightroom, so you can follow the instructions I’ve given above.

If you prefer to correct distortion in Photoshop, however (or you’re editing a JPEG file), then open the Filter menu and click on the Lens Correction option.

Here, you’ll find plenty of tools under Auto-Correction. To fix optical lens distortion, click the Geometric Distortion option.

And if Photoshop doesn’t recognize the lens or you want to correct distortion manually, go ahead and use the Custom tab.

Luminar AI

In Luminar AI, head to the Edit panel and scroll until you reach the Professional section.

Open the Optics panel, then use the Lens Distortion slider to deal with any distortion issues.

If you’re editing a RAW file, you’ll also have the option to use the Auto Distortion Corrections tool.

GIMP

Once you open your photo in GIMP, select Filters>Distortion>Lens Distortion.

Then move the Main and Edge sliders until you’re happy with the result.

The 2 main types of perspective distortion

As I discussed above, perspective distortion isn’t technically lens distortion; instead, it’s caused by the distance between the subject and the camera/lens.

Here are the two key types to be aware of:

Extension distortion

Extension distortion, also called wide-angle distortion, is when objects close to the camera appear unnaturally large (or far apart).

This effect is especially noticeable when using wide-angle lenses, as wide-angle photography often takes place close to the camera. However, it is not directly caused by wide-angle lenses, and you can still get extension distortion when using telephoto lenses.

To see extension distortion in action, grab a wide-angle setup (your smartphone will work just fine!), then put your nose close to the lens and take a photo. See how your nose looks huge in relation to the rest of your face?

Compression distortion

Compression distortion is the opposite of extension distortion, and it’s when objects far from the camera appear unnaturally small (or close together).

Compression distortion is often referred to as compression due to focal length, but this is incorrect; telephoto focal lengths do tend to exhibit more obvious compression distortion, but only because telephoto photography is generally done at a distance.

Compression comes with several pleasing effects, so certain photographers, such as portrait, wildlife, and bird snappers, deliberately try to produce it. For instance, compression helps smooth out backgrounds (which in turn enhances the subject).

How to avoid perspective distortion

You’ll often notice perspective distortion when photographing buildings. Because you’re shooting from the ground up, the bottom of the building (the part nearer to your lens) will expand, while the top of the building (the part farthest from your lens) will compress. Ultimately, the building will appear to converge toward the top.

To avoid this effect, try to shoot from a higher or farther vantage point – perhaps from the opposite side of the street or from a window. Alternatively, you can use tilt-shift lenses. These are capable of producing distortion-free photos (though they do tend to be relatively pricey!).

Selfie distortion is another common issue. To avoid it, try working with a selfie stick; you might also try mounting your camera on a tripod, activating the self-timer, and taking a few steps back. The idea is to get farther away from your camera to prevent your face (or nose) from appearing unnaturally large.

How to correct perspective distortion in post-processing

Some types of perspective distortion can be fixed in post-processing, though note that you’ll lose pixels in the process.

So if you do plan to allow for perspective distortion and only make corrections afterward, aim to compose slightly wider than necessary (to give yourself room to crop at the end).

Also, whatever software or technique you use, make sure your horizon is straight before you do any perspective correction.

Lightroom

To correct perspective distortion in Lightroom, start by opening your image in the Develop panel. Find the Transform section.

You can try clicking the Auto option, or you can adjust the Vertical and Horizontal sliders until you get a nice result.

Photoshop

Correcting perspective distortion in Photoshop is simple:

First, select the entire image (hit Ctrl/Cmd+t) or double click on the background layer to unlock it.

Then go to Edit>Transform>Perspective. Finally, click and drag one of the corners to correct the perspective.

If you’re working with a RAW file, you can also correct the perspective in Adobe Camera Raw. Just follow the instructions I gave for distortion correction in Lightroom (above).

Luminar AI

Open the Essentials panel and find the Composition tool. Under Perspective, you’ll see two buttons.

Use the left button to correct the horizon (do this one first!). Then use the right button to correct the perspective.

GIMP

In the Filters menu, select Distortion>Lens Distortion.

After you use the Main and Edge sliders to correct optical distortion (see above), use the Vertical and Horizontal sliders to fix any perspective distortion issues.

Lens distortion: final words

Hopefully, you now understand the ins and outs of lens distortion.

It’s a complex topic – but with a basic understanding of distortion, you can avoid both optical and perspective distortion in your photos, and you can take steps to correct it when necessary.

Now over to you:

How do you plan to deal with lens distortion? Will you avoid it in camera? Correct it when editing? Both? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Lens Distortion in Photography: A Quick Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

You’ve probably heard about the ongoing debate between JPEG vs RAW files – but what about RAW vs TIFF? It’s not a common topic, but it’s just as important.

In this article, I’ll talk about the characteristics of these two file formats, and I’ll explain what makes each option great. By the time you’ve finished, you’ll know why and when to use TIFF and RAW.

Let’s get started!

TIFF format: overview

TIFF stands for Tagged Image File Format. It is an uncompressed file format for rasterized graphics. In photography, it’s normally used to save high-quality post-processed images.

Most people, including amateur photographers, aren’t familiar with TIFF files. Some even argue that the file format is obsolete and shouldn’t be used.

On the other hand, many professionals still believe it’s the best way to store your images – after you’ve finished editing and retouching.

RAW format: overview

RAW files contain unprocessed data from a photo. To use an analog comparison, it’s like having an undeveloped roll of film.

Most RAW file formats have proprietary names. That’s why you won’t find a file extension .RAW. Instead, you can find .NEF, .NRW, .CR2, .CR3, .ARW, .DNG, and many others.

All professional cameras and most prosumer cameras offer the ability to shoot in RAW. You can even find this feature on point-and-shoot cameras.

In fact, some smartphones have the option to shoot in RAW – and if your smartphone’s native camera app doesn’t support RAW shooting, you can always do it via a third-party app.

RAW vs TIFF: data and post-processing flexibility

RAW files are (almost always) produced by cameras. That’s because RAW files contain the unprocessed information the camera recorded at the time of capture.

This gives you the most flexibility when editing your images and retains details from the shadows and highlights. With a RAW file, nothing has been discarded, so you have all the data to work with (including additional highlight and shadow information).

That’s why it doesn’t make sense to convert other types of files (JPEGs or TIFFs) to RAW. Any unprocessed information will be gone, so even if you change the file type, you won’t get the extra data.

Most cameras don’t offer the option to shoot in TIFF; normally, TIFF files are created when you save a scanned image as a TIFF file, or you save/export a fully edited photo as a TIFF.

Note that TIFFs, like RAWs, are uncompressed. But they don’t retain the slew of data present in a RAW file. I would advise using TIFFs when you don’t want your image compressed, but you don’t need it to be widely editable. For example, if you want to send a high-quality file to a client or to the printer.

RAW vs TIFF: size

Since RAW files contain so much information, you might expect huge sizes compared to TIFFs. However, TIFF files are almost double the size of RAW files.

See, RAW files don’t have any color information, while TIFF files are already processed with data in three color channels: red, green, and blue.

This is one of the reasons why many people advocate against TIFF files in the RAW vs TIFF debate. They are heavier than RAW files but include less data.

This is also why it’s not practical to shoot directly in TIFF. You would fill up your memory cards extremely fast! It would also slow down the storage process and prevent your camera’s continuous shooting modes from working properly.

If you want to shoot a processed image, most cameras offer various JPEG options. The file will be compressed, but the size will definitely be smaller, even at the highest quality.

RAW vs TIFF: opening and processing files

TIFF is widely supported by most photo editing and photo organizer programs across all platforms. It’s one of the reasons TIFFs are so great for sharing images (plus, they’re lossless!).

RAW, on the other hand, is not as universally supported – although it’s becoming more and more common. As I mentioned before, each manufacturer has a different file extension for their RAW files, and in the same way, each manufacturer offers different RAW processing software for their files. Canon has Digital Photo Professional, which can open and edit CRW, CR2, and CR3 files. Nikon has ViewNX to open, browse, edit, and share files, and it also has NEF Codec to handle NEF files. Sony has RAW Driver, Panasonic has LUMIX RAW Codec, and so on.

If you have cameras from multiple brands and you want to process the RAW files from all of them using the same software, you’ll probably be okay; there are multiple programs that support the most common RAW formats on the market. Some of the most popular include Photoshop (through Adobe Camera Raw) and Lightroom. For non-Adobe users, there’s Luminar AI, Aurora HDR, ACDSee Photo Studio, Capture One, etc.

If you prefer to work with free, open-source software, you can use GIMP with the UFRaw plug-in, RawTherapee, or Darktable.

It’s also worth mentioning that Adobe developed an open-patent RAW file known as the DNG (Digital Negative). Many cameras and especially smartphones generate DNG files.

RAW vs TIFF files: final words

As you can see, both RAW and TIFF are valid formats with different qualities and purposes.

RAW files are the best way to store your images when you want the utmost flexibility for editing and post-production. However, sharing your RAW files probably isn’t a great idea; for one, they’re not easily viewable, plus people can do whatever they want with them, editing-wise. Normally, you’d want to keep control over the final outcome (when sending an image to a client, say).

TIFF files are a great way to save your images at the highest quality once you’ve developed them and you don’t plan to do any additional editing. Once you’ve saved a photo as a TIFF, you can open and re-save it as many times as you want without losing quality, plus you can share your TIFFs without worry.

I hope this article sheds some light on the RAW vs TIFF debate – and helps you determine the better file format for your workflow.

Now over to you:

Which do you prefer, RAW or TIFF files? Why? Which do you plan to use? And do you have any additional questions about RAWs and TIFFs? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

TIFF vs RAW FAQs

The post RAW vs TIFF: Which File Type Should You Use for Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Looking for a top-notch photo editor, one that offers a combination of power, user-friendliness, and organizational chops? Lightroom and RawTherapee both fit the bill, but it can be tough to determine which option is perfect for your needs.

And that’s where this article comes in handy. I’ll break down the main aspects of these two programs, from the ease of use to the costs and benefits.

So if you’re ready to determine which program is better, Lightroom vs RawTherapee, then let’s get started.

Lightroom vs RawTherapee: overview

Lightroom and RawTherapee are both photo editing programs with advanced RAW processing capabilities. In fact, Lightroom is one of the most popular choices in the photography world, though many people are put off by Adobe’s subscription model. RawTherapee is less well known, which makes finding learning resources difficult, though the program itself is (get this!) free.

As far as I’m concerned, you can’t go wrong with either option – they both work nicely, though they cater to different types of photographers. Let’s take a closer look.

Ease of use

Is Lightroom the easier program to use, especially as a beginner? Or is RawTherapee the better buy?

Download and installation

To install, purchase, and download Lightroom, you’ll need to set up an Adobe account. You’ll also need to navigate through the different plans available and decide which one works best for you. This isn’t as straightforward as you might like; it can be tough to fully understand the difference between some of the options.

Once you’ve decided on a plan, you can subscribe by providing a Paypal account or a credit card. Alternatively, you can start a free trial. Then you’ll need to follow Adobe’s instructions to install the Creative Cloud – necessary for any Adobe app – and then, from the Creative Cloud window, install Lightroom.

RawTherapee is a free open source program. To download it, simply go to the RawTherapee website, choose your operating system, and click Download. You’ll receive the software, which you can install like any other program. You’ll also get a “manual,” which is actually a link to a page with information and tutorials. And if you want an older version of RawTherapee, just click Downloads on the home page to see the entire set of available programs.

Interface

Lightroom has seven modules, though the most used ones are the Library module (to manage your files) and the Develop module (to edit your images). The remaining modules are for specific uses and are fairly self-explanatory – for example, Book lets you design photo books, Print lets you prepare prints, and so on. Lightroom’s standard tools are clearly marked, but it might take some time for you to fully explore the interface.

RawTherapee is also user friendly, although experienced photo editors may find its lack of similarity to other programs off-putting. By default, it opens in the File Browser section, which is very straightforward and like Lightroom.

On the left side, you’ll find the tabs to change the screen. There’s an Editor screen – to edit your photos – and a Queue option – to export your edited images.

You should be able to apply your first edits without help, but it will take some time and effort to understand RawTherapee’s full potential.

Information and tutorials

Adobe provides a wide variety of Lightroom video tutorials that will guide you from beginner to pro. And since it’s the most popular photo editing software on the planet, you’ll find countless YouTubers explaining how to do practically anything you can think of. Written tutorials are also available from the official Adobe site, as well as third-party websites (such as dPS!).

RawTherapee has a RawPedia with all the information you need to get started and perfect your skills, and the material is available in multiple languages. Like most open-source programs, there’s also a big community behind RawTherapee that’s happy to share its knowledge and help you with any problems.

Cancellation

Lightroom is a subscription-based software, and in most cases, plans are annual. If you cancel before the end of your yearly subscription, you’ll be charged 50% of the remaining months of the membership. After that, you can keep up to 2 GB of storage in the cloud, and you’ll have 90 days to delete any files that exceed the limit. You’ll then have a year to export your edited images from Lightroom, but you can’t make any more changes.

Since RawTherapee doesn’t require a subscription, you can simply delete it from your computer (and re-download it) at will. After deleting the program, you’ll still have your original files, and if you exported your edited photos, you’ll have those, too.

Workflow

Both Lightroom and RawTherapee offer complete workflows; you can organize, edit, and export your files, all within the program.

File management

When you import images, Lightroom creates a catalog, which it uses to save your edits. You can create collections and search for your photos by keyword, EXIF data, tags, etc. The downside to this is that it works independently from your computer and hard drive – if you move a file outside Lightroom, the program won’t be notified and will subsequently fail to find the image.

All Lightroom edits are stored in an LRCAT file, which contains all the catalog data. That’s why moving a file to another location means losing the edits; even if you import it again, Lightroom won’t associate the new file with the original edit.

RawTherapee uses a file browser; this means you don’t need to import files, plus you can move them around outside of the program and still be able to find them again.

Edits are stored in PP3 sidecar files. As long as you copy the PP3 file together with the original image, you’ll always have the edits, even in a new location. Also, you can manage your photos with tags and ratings (the same as in Lightroom).

Photo editing

To edit your photos in Lightroom, you must import them and open the Develop module. Here, you’ll find tools to manage your files and edits along the left-hand side – for example, the Navigator and the History panel. The image is displayed in the center, and you’ll see all edits applied in real-time.

On the right, you can access all the editing tools, starting with the Basic panel and its essential sliders (e.g., Contrast, Exposure, Saturation, and Clarity). The next sections are designed for advanced editing, and Lightroom offers several tools for targeted adjustments as well. If that’s not enough, you can always send the image from Lightroom to Photoshop (assuming you get Photoshop as part of your membership plan).

The RawTherapee Editor module is divided into three panels. On the left, you have Preview, History, and Snapshots; in the center, you have the image; on the right, you’ll find the editing tools.

In RawTherapee, you can do all the standard basic edits and many advanced ones, too. If this isn’t enough and you need to work with layers, you can link RawTherapee with Photoshop, or with GIMP if you prefer to stick with free and open-source programs.

Batch editing

In Lightroom, batch editing is easy. You can use presets, which are automated sets of adjustments, to apply the same edit to multiple images, and there are tons of free and paid presets out there for you to choose from (or you can make your own). You can also batch edit by syncing adjustments from one photo to other photos in the Filmstrip. Another choice is to copy-paste the Develop settings.

RawTherapee also offers batch editing. You can copy and paste the same processing profile to multiple images in the Editor module, or you can batch edit in the Browser module via the batch-adjust option.

Saving and exporting

Lightroom doesn’t have a Save option. To get your edited photos out of Lightroom and save them to your computer or external hard drive, you need to use the Export button in the Library module or select Menu>Edit>Export.

In RawTherapee, you have two ways of saving your images. If you click on the hard drive icon, you can save the image immediately (as you can do with the Save As option in any standard program). However, this can “distract” your CPU resources and slow down your work, which is where the Queue comes in.

If you send the images to the Queue (which you can access from a tab on the left), you’ll have the benefit of processing all of your images at the end, making the most of your time and your computer’s power.

Cost

Technically, Lightroom can’t be bought; you can only purchase a membership that allows you to use it. Depending on the membership plan and the way you pay (monthly or annually), the price can vary, though it starts at $9.99 USD per month.

All Photography plans include Adobe Lightroom, Cloud storage (from 20 GB to 1 TB), Adobe Express, and Adobe Portfolio. Some upgraded plans may include Lightroom Classic, Photoshop, and other Adobe apps.

With a personal membership, you can download the program on two computers, but you can’t use them at the same time. Whenever you install Lightroom, you also need to download and install Creative Cloud.

RawTherapee is completely free, and you don’t even need to register before downloading. You get the full software, which you can install and use on as many computers as you want. It can also be installed on a portable hard drive.

Lightroom vs RawTherapee: which program should you buy?

As you can see, Lightroom and RawTherapee are both great for processing RAW files and editing pictures. The choice between them comes down to needs and personal preference. Let me go through some example scenarios to help you understand:

If you often edit your photos on your phone and like to easily move from your mobile devices to your computer, you’ll be better off with Lightroom, as there isn’t a mobile version of RawTherapee – though make sure you use Lightroom CC, not Lightroom Classic.

If you have an old computer or you are running low on storage space, you should definitely use RawTherapee. Not only is it lighter, but you only have to download one app, not two (as is required by Adobe).

If you only plan to edit on occasion, you might wish to avoid a monthly fee. In this case, RawTherapee is the software for you.

There are many things to consider when you choose between Lightroom and RawTherapee. Hopefully, this article gave you enough information to make the right decision!

Now over to you:

Have you tried Lightroom? How about RawTherapee? Which did you prefer? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Lightroom vs RawTherapee FAQs

The post Lightroom vs RawTherapee: Which Editor Should You Pick? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Which is the better post-processing program, GIMP vs Photoshop?

That’s what this article is all about. I’m going to take you through the pros and cons of each program – so by the time you’ve finished, you’ll know which option is right for you.

So, if you’re ready to determine the best editing software for your needs…

…then keep on reading!

GIMP vs Photoshop: Overview

Photoshop is proprietary software that is available via paid subscription, whereas GIMP is a free, open-source program.

In the old days, before 2013 when Adobe changed to its subscription model, price was enough to decide between Photoshop vs GIMP.

You could choose Gimp for free, Photoshop CS6 for $699, or Photoshop CS6 Extended for $999. For most photographers, GIMP would inevitably win out.

Nowadays, you can have Adobe Photoshop starting at $9.99 USD per month. That’s a very reasonable price, even for a hobbyist.

Of course, GIMP is still free, so don’t automatically pay for Photoshop without thinking.

Instead, I recommend you take a careful look at the key differences between these two programs:

GIMP pros

• Portability
• Light download
• Faster processing
• Customizable
• Free

Photoshop pros

• Mobile
• More tools
• Handles more color profiles
• Supports RAW and other file formats
• Non-destructive editing
• Good value for the money

Mobility and portability

If you only have one computer and do all your photo editing there, this isn’t an issue for you. However, most photographers don’t edit that way.

You see, here’s one of the most important differences between GIMP and Photoshop:

GIMP is more portable, while Photoshop is mobile.

GIMP doesn’t have a mobile version, which puts it at a huge disadvantage in today’s world where every smartphone has a camera.

Of course, you can still edit your photos on your phone for free. There are many options out there (including Photoshop, as I’ll explain in a moment). However, you can’t do mobile editing with GIMP.

What GIMP does have is portability. If you need to work on multiple computers, GIMP can be downloaded as many times as you want. You can even install GIMP on a USB drive so you can use it on any computer without having to download it.

This is an excellent choice if you want to edit your photos in a university library or in the business lounge at your hotel or airport, for example.

Photoshop, on the other hand, can only be installed on two computers. Also, the program needs to be fully installed, so you can’t place it on external hard drives.

However, Photoshop does have a mobile version: any paid Photoshop subscription comes with Photoshop for the iPad.

Plus, Photoshop for smartphones has three free versions (though you’ll need a free Adobe account to use them).

In summary:

Photoshop wins if you need to edit on the go. GIMP wins if you need to use it on many computers, including public ones.

Size and speed

GIMP is a very light program (after all, you can install and use GIMP from a portable USB drive!).

Photoshop, on the other hand, occupies quite a lot of space on your hard drive. It also uses a lot of RAM. So if your computer has limited processing capacity, Photoshop won’t be your friend.

There are some ways to optimize your computer for Photoshop use, but all in all, Photoshop will always be more resource-intensive than GIMP.

For Photoshop, you need 4 GB of available hard disk space (and additional space is required for installation).

GIMP requires 200 MB for the official install. This can grow depending on how you enhance GIMP over time.

As far as memory goes, Adobe recommends a minimum of 8 GB and preferably 16 GB of RAM. I’ve used Photoshop with 4 GB of RAM, and it works – but it’s choppy. GIMP, however, only needs about 20 MB of memory.

Note that the memory required by both GIMP and Photoshop can significantly increase depending on the images you’re working on, so that’s always something to bear in mind.

Ultimately, thanks to its size and processing requirements, I have to give the win to GIMP.

System and tools

I mentioned at the beginning that GIMP is open source while Photoshop is proprietary software.

This means you can modify GIMP as much as you want, from adding tools to directly changing the source code.

Modifying a program is great, but if you don’t know the tech behind GIMP, you probably won’t be able to take advantage of the open-source design. Even installing GIMP plug-ins can be difficult, and without these enhancements, you’ll be left with a program that is too bare to be appealing.

On the other hand, if you can get the hang of it, this flexibility can be hugely helpful. Plus, there is a big community behind GIMP, and many members are constantly creating interesting program additions. That way, you don’t have to wait for the GIMP team to release the next update; you can use community members’ programming to enhance your own GIMP software.

Photoshop is delivered as a finished product. You can’t make many changes, but it also doesn’t require much in the way of enhancements. You can set up your own workspace and add plugins, but that’s about it. On the upside, you get continuous updates included as part of your Adobe subscription – and in every update, you get high-quality improvements and innovations, thanks to a huge team that has maintained Photoshop’s status as the industry standard for many decades.

Photoshop also gives you the tools to create graphics and 3D designs, which is a very big plus if you have use for it.

Otherwise, these features will take up a lot of space in your system, but you don’t have the option to remove them and keep only what you need.

When it comes to tools, I find it difficult to declare an overall winner. Photoshop is a more robust program, but GIMP is more flexible. I’ll call it a tie, depending on your needs and skills.

File formats and color profiles

As you know, digital images are files with information. The file format is the way in which this information is encoded and stored.

Photoshop has its own native format: the PSD, or Photoshop Document. In the same sense, GIMP has native XCF files.

While the PSD is native to Photoshop, it’s very compatible; it can be opened by the Adobe apps, CorelDRAW, and even GIMP.

On the other hand, the XCF file format is not supported by other image editing programs. This makes it difficult to share original XCF files.

As a workaround, you can export the file using one of the common file formats like JPEG or TIFF, but the lack of XCF support does present some problems if you want the file recipient to build on your own edits (assuming they don’t use GIMP).

Also, GIMP doesn’t open RAW files by default. If you want to work with RAW files in GIMP, you have to download and install a plugin called UFRaw, whereas Photoshop has a built-in companion program, Adobe Camera RAW, which handles RAW files with ease.

When it comes to file management, you also have to consider the color profile options.

Gimp can only handle the sRGB color profile, whereas Photoshop has many more options. This is important when you want your images to look their best on the web and for printing.

To recap:

Regarding file formats and color profiles, Photoshop offers more options and is more compatible with other programs – which is why I’d give the win to Photoshop.

Editing and layers

I already covered the tools in a previous section, so you know that, for advanced editing, Photoshop has the edge over GIMP.

Both programs support plugins, actions, and presets. You can find many great options for free. The only difference is that Photoshop has more variety to choose from because it’s more popular overall.

The same rules apply for tutorials:

You’ll find so many more educational materials for the Adobe products compared to GIMP.

Finally, there is one thing Gimp is sorely lacking: non-destructive editing. Photoshop offers both adjustment layers and smart objects, which are extremely important for serious editing and hand Photoshop a definite win.

Cost and value

Last, I want to talk about cost and value.

When you download GIMP, there is no cost or subscription involved in the process. You get a photo editing program for free.

That’s not bad at all, considering that you’re not paying any money or giving out any information that many other “free” programs require.

However, you’ll need to download GIMP enhancements separately.

A Photoshop subscription includes the editing program, plus cloud storage space, a free customizable website on Adobe Portfolio, and access to Adobe Fresco, Adobe Fonts, and Adobe Express. You can also get Adobe Lightroom if you choose the Photography plan.

And you have access to all the perks that come with the size and experience of Adobe, such as thousands of high-quality, creative brushes designed by Kyle T. Webster, as well as the most innovative tools that a big team of experts can develop.

When it comes to value, I have to declare a Photoshop vs GIMP tie. GIMP is free in every sense of the word, and you get excellent software.

For Photoshop, you do have to pay, but considering the low cost, the high quality, and the number of extras that you get, the program offers great value for the money.

It all comes down to what you need and what you can afford.

GIMP vs Photoshop: Conclusion

In my opinion, Photoshop is worth having if you’re into photography post-production.

That is, of course, if you can afford it. If you can’t do that just yet, then GIMP is a magnificent choice.

I actually have and use both programs. There are some things I find easier to do in one software versus the other. So owning Photoshop and GIMP gives me the best of both worlds!

I hope this GIMP vs Photoshop comparison gave you enough information to decide on the right program for you, based on your needs and budget.

Remember that the most important thing is your passion and your skills, so keep on creating – no matter which program you choose!

To download GIMP, click here, and to purchase Photoshop, click here.

Now over to you:

Which post-processing program do you prefer, GIMP or Photoshop? And why? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post GIMP vs Photoshop: Which Should You Use in 2023? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Starting out in digital photography can seem a little daunting. With so many avenues to explore, it can be hard to pinpoint exactly where to begin. Here are 11 things to experiment with when first taking up photography.

1. Semi-automatic and manual modes

When first getting started in photography, it can be tempting to switch a camera over to Auto mode and forget about making manual adjustments, especially when starting out in digital photography. Why make manual adjustments when the camera can do it all for you, right?

The truth is that shooting with Auto mode sacrifices experience, flexibility, and control. If you can avoid Auto mode, you should.

Now, the prospect of shooting in Manual can prove overwhelming to start with. Fortunately, there are often semi-automatic modes available in-camera to bridge the gap between Manual and Auto.

Shutter Priority allows you to alter shutter speed while the camera automatically adjusts the aperture. Aperture Priority is similar, but it allows you to change the aperture while the camera adjusts the shutter speed instead.

Shutter Priority and Aperture Priority facilitate a creative approach to photography while allowing the camera to manage some of the load in maintaining a decent exposure. This balance of functionality allows you to experiment, which in turn helps you develop a good sense of the right settings for any circumstance.

And after becoming familiar with the dynamics of semi-automatic modes, graduating to Manual is a lot more fluid, when you can finally take full advantage of the camera as a creative tool.

2. ISO

ISO is a little misunderstood; there’s a great video about it here. But in basic terms, ISO is a setting that brightens an image in-camera. As the ISO value is increased, images grow progressively lighter. It’s a function that is useful for photography in darker environments.

However, raising the ISO value also increases noise, which can compromise the quality of a digital image.

Experimenting with ISO will give you a sense of how your images will turn out in low-light situations. By becoming familiar with ISO and its trade-offs, you can learn to anticipate the outcome of a photograph, maintaining as strong image quality as possible in a variety of environments.

3. Metering modes

In-camera metering is how a camera determines the appropriate exposure for a given situation. Metering modes refer to the method the metering system uses to evaluate a scene.

Different metering modes allow photographers to select the ideal settings for a particular situation. For example, Matrix metering (Nikon)/Evaluative metering (Canon) measures the light intensity at several zones in a scene, then combines the results to find the average settings for the exposure. Spot metering, on the other hand, measures only a very small portion of a scene to determine exposure settings.

While Matrix/Evaluative metering is useful for situations with evenly-distributed tones, Spot metering is ideal for metering in high-contrast scenarios. Experimenting with metering modes exposes a user to effective ways of working in different lighting conditions, leading to greater creative and technical control.

4. White balance

Different lighting conditions can impact the color temperature of the overall photo. For example, fluorescent lights can generate a different color cast than the afternoon sun. To rectify this, many digital cameras offer a function that balances the whites in a scene in order to make images appear more natural.

Experimenting with preset or custom white balance modes can help achieve a more aesthetically pleasing result in-camera. Although white balance can be set to Auto, the camera doesn’t always get it right. Trying out custom or preset white balance functions prepares a photographer for tricky lighting situations down the track.

5. Manual focus

As a beginner photographer, achieving sharp images can be a challenge. Although a camera’s autofocus function is quick and relatively easy to use, shooting with manual focus can sometimes be the difference between successful and unsuccessful images.

Often, manual focus is much more effective than autofocus in low-light and low-contrast conditions, and shooting through objects (like glass or fencing) with autofocus engaged can be a frustrating experience. The autofocus system may even get confused when the user is trying to focus on a fast-moving subject.

While autofocus may be convenient in some situations, switching to manual focus can play a vital role in creating quality images. Experimenting with manual focus when starting out in digital photography builds and reinforces technical experience. Using manual focus also fosters a greater awareness of camera capabilities and generates a more diverse range of images.

6. Composition

Throughout the history of visual art, concepts have emerged to aid in the formulation of impactful imagery. Composition refers to the organization of visual elements within an artwork. Whether it’s a painting, a photograph, or a sculpture, all art hinges on composition.

Experimenting with composition allows photographers in the early stages of their practice to arm themselves with helpful knowledge that has been passed down by artists. By experimenting with compositional elements (such as perspective, the rule of thirds, and leading lines), new photographers can quickly start to identify and utilize key visual aspects of a scene.

7. Abstraction

Wikipedia defines abstract photography as “a means of depicting a visual image that does not have an immediate association with the object world and that has been created through the use of photographic equipment, processes, or materials.”

Basically, abstract photographers generate subject matter that prioritizes aesthetic experience over conventional discernibility.

Abstraction is a unique facet of photography in that it encourages a more experimental approach to the photo-making process.

By taking advantage of abstraction, those starting out in digital photography are free to experiment beyond the conventional notion of a photograph. This experimentation will inevitably inform other areas of a new photographer’s practice, building experience and developing individual perspective.

8. Subject matter

There is nothing wrong with specializing, but tackling a range of different photographic fields expands your photographic experience. And it can also completely alter the way you approach your preferred subject matter.

For example, landscape photography can reveal opportunities for beautiful outdoor portraits. Abstract photography can impact the way motion is expressed in action shots. Street photography can help you develop an eye for subtle photographic opportunities. Macro photography will help you notice small details.

In short, experience with different photographic subjects can feed into one another in surprising ways. Experimenting with a variety of subjects is a solid means of developing a well-rounded photographic approach.

9. Perspective

One of the reasons photography is so effective is because it challenges both the photographer’s and the viewer’s comprehension of the world. However, it can be easy to get into the habit of photographing subjects from the same eye-level viewpoint, especially when starting out.

We all know the saying, “Show, don’t tell.” Moving around with the camera is one of the simplest ways to convey a unique photographic experience. You can shoot from above your subject, below your subject, or off to the side.

And by experimenting with different camera positions, you explore the nature of photography and the world we live in. By photographing from interesting or unusual perspectives, the physicality of the image-making process is emphasized, providing a unique insight into the world through the experience of the photographer.

10. Post-production

Getting it right in-camera is ideal, but sometimes a bit of work in post-production is necessary. Becoming familiar with digital post-production techniques can be very handy, especially because even minor adjustments can create a positive impact. In addition, editing can affect your overall approach to digital image-making by revealing photographic techniques that work well or need improvement.

Photoshop is a great tool for editing images, but there are also free applications such as GIMP to make use of. With practice, you can develop a sense of how to bring the best out of a photograph.

11. Accessories

There are plenty of ways to expand your creative image-making through economical accessories.

For example, extension tubes are a cheap way of getting into macro photography. Filters can significantly alter the outcome of a photograph. And a budget tripod will help you achieve sharp images. Renting or buying second-hand is also a viable option. In some cases, digital photographers can even make use of old lenses designed for film cameras.

Investing in economical accessories allows new photographers to experiment with engaging techniques without breaking the bank.

Starting out in digital photography: Conclusion

While there are plenty of considerations to take into account when starting out in digital photography, experimenting with technical settings, creative approaches, and accessories gives you a strong foundation for future photography endeavors.

And this allows for a more comprehensive skillset and well-developed creative instincts.

Now over to you:

Have you tried experimenting with any of these items? What are you going to experiment with first? Leave a comment and let us know!

The post 11 Things to Experiment With When Starting Out in Digital Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.