When you’re just starting out in the world of wedding photography, capturing stunning images can seem incredibly daunting. After all, you only get one chance to photograph the big day; there are no do-overs or second chances.

But fear not! Snapping amazing photos on the big day is totally within your grasp. Trust me, it’s not as hard as it might seem. In fact, with the right techniques and a little know-how, you’ll be well on your way to capturing those picture-perfect moments that will make couples and their families cherish their wedding memories forever.

In this article, I’ll be sharing 21 invaluable tips to help you level up your wedding photography game. We’ll cover everything from lighting and composition to camera settings and more. So let’s jump right in and discover how you can create wedding masterpieces that will leave everyone in awe, starting with:

1. Create a shot list

One of the best pieces of advice I’ve ever received for capturing stunning wedding photos is to have the couple plan ahead and think about the specific shots they want on their big day.

Create a checklist of these shots so you can tick them off one by one. This tip is especially valuable when it comes to family photos. Trust me, you don’t want to get the pictures back only to realize you forgot to capture the beaming couple with Grandma!

And it’s not just about family shots. You should also identify those little detail shots that matter, like the photos of the rings and the beautifully arranged table settings.

Now, I’m not saying you should stick to the script all the time. Let the shot list be your guide, but don’t be afraid to photograph those spontaneous moments when they happen. After all, some of the most memorable images come from those unexpected, unplanned events!

2. Find a family photo coordinator

Weddings are beautiful and often well-organized, but there’s one part of the day that can turn into a chaotic whirlwind: the family photos. People scatter in all directions, different family dynamics come into play, and – let’s be honest! – some guests might have indulged in a few celebratory spirits.

To ensure a smooth family photo session, get the couple to appoint a family member as the “director” of the shoot. They’ll be like your very own photo general, rounding up the troops, and keeping the show on the road. The photo coordinator will rally everyone together, help you get them perfectly positioned, and make sure everything flows smoothly. In other words, they’ll take charge while the couple enjoys the festivities.

By having a designated family photo coordinator, you’ll avoid missing any crucial shots on your list, and the entire day will be far less nerve-wracking for everyone involved.

3. Scout the location

Before the big day, make sure you take a trip to the wedding venue and familiarize yourself with the surroundings. Now, I know some pros might skip this step, but trust me, it’s a game-changer! Exploring the location beforehand gives you an edge. You’ll get a feel for the best positions to capture those stunning shots and how the light will work its magic. Plus, if they’re up for it, you can even bring the couple along for some engagement photos as a bonus!

During your scouting mission, keep an eye out for captivating backgrounds that will make your photos pop. Also be on the lookout for distractions to avoid. Think about how the lighting will change throughout the day; see if you can determine which areas will be bathed in glorious light and which ones might be in the shade.

These small details can make a world of difference!

4. Prepare, prepare, prepare!

When it comes to wedding photography, preparation is the secret ingredient for success. You never know what might throw a curveball on the big day, so it’s crucial to be well-prepared. Here are some key tips to ensure you’re ready to capture those unforgettable moments:

First and foremost, have a plan in your back pocket for any unexpected weather surprises. Mother Nature can be unpredictable, but you won’t be caught off guard if you’ve got a plan B up your sleeve.

Make sure your batteries are juiced up and your memory cards are ready to go. The last thing you want is to miss out on capturing the magical moments because your gear isn’t up to the task.

As I emphasized in the previous section, take some time to scout the locations and think about the best routes and timings to get to each spot. Being familiar with the surroundings will help you effortlessly navigate the venue and seize those picture-perfect opportunities.

One pro tip: If you can, attend the ceremony rehearsal. It’s like a sneak preview of the main event and will offer plenty of invaluable insights. You’ll get a chance to identify ideal shooting positions, observe the lighting conditions, and familiarize yourself with the order of the ceremony.

Remember, the more prepared you are, the easier your job will be.

5. Set expectations with the couple

Before you start planning for the big day, it’s important you set clear expectations. This step is crucial because it ensures you’re on the same page and ready to capture their special day.

First things first, show them your work and unique style. This will help them envision their own wedding captured beautifully through your lens (and perhaps inspire them to ask for certain photos).

Next, have an open conversation with the couple to understand their goals. Find out what they want to achieve with their wedding photos. Do they dream of capturing heartfelt moments, candid shots, or the grandeur of the ceremony? Knowing their desires will allow you to tailor your approach accordingly.

Now, let’s talk numbers. How many shots do they expect? Some couples may want an extensive collection, while others prefer a more curated selection. Get a sense of their preferences, and make sure you’re both on the same wavelength.

Remember to discuss how they plan to use the photos. Will they be printing them in a stunning wedding album? Or do they have other creative ideas in mind? Knowing their intentions will help you deliver exactly what they need.

Last but not least, bring up the topic no one likes to talk about: money. If you’re charging for your services, it’s crucial to establish the price in advance. Have an agreement in place that outlines the cost so there are no surprises later on. This ensures a smooth and transparent relationship with the couple.

By setting expectations early on, you’ll be laying the foundation for a successful collaboration.

6. Turn off the sound on your camera

Those annoying beeps from your camera during speeches, the kiss, and vows? They’re not adding anything special to the event. In fact, they’re just distracting the audience and annoying everyone around. Trust me, no one wants that.

So before the big day, make sure to turn off those camera sounds and keep them off. Luckily, most of the latest mirrorless models come with powerful silent-shooting options. That way, you can capture all those magical moments without making a peep.

7. Shoot the small details

When it comes to wedding photography, it’s not just about the happy couple and the lively guests. Don’t miss out on the hidden gems and carefully curated details that make the event truly special.

Take the time to capture shots of those stunning rings, the intricate designs on the backs of dresses, the elegant shoes, the vibrant bouquets, the meticulously arranged table settings, and even the charming menus. These little things may seem insignificant, but they hold a world of meaning for the couple. Plus, they’ll add an extra touch of enchantment to the final album.

Feeling a bit unsure about which details to focus on? Check out the websites of your favorite wedding photographers for some ideas.

Remember that it’s the small things that often carry the most significance and have the power to bring back cherished memories later on!

8. Use two cameras

Professional wedding photographers often work with at least two cameras, and it’s a practice worth adopting. Using two cameras will enhance your versatility as a photographer and provide a safety net in case your main camera malfunctions.

Also, whether you borrow, rent, or buy an additional camera, make sure to set it up with a different lens. I recommend shooting with wide-angle glass to capture candid moments and handle tight spaces, especially during the pre-ceremony preparations. Having a longer lens available (I personally use a 70-200mm) can also be advantageous in certain situations.

9. Consider bringing a second wedding photographer

Bringing in a second photographer can be a game-changer! It means less running around during the ceremony and speeches and allows one photographer to focus on those classic, formal shots while the other captures all those precious candid moments. It also takes the pressure off you as “the one” who has to nail every single shot!

Let’s face it, weddings are chaotic, and having an extra set of eyes and lenses ensures that no unforgettable moment goes uncaptured. So why not double the talent and double the memories?

10. Be bold but not obtrusive

To capture that perfect shot, you need to be bold and confident. However, it’s crucial to strike a balance and avoid getting in the way or distracting the audience.

During the ceremony, aim to move around discreetly at least 4-5 times. Timing is key, so try to coordinate your movements with songs, sermons, or longer readings. By anticipating and positioning yourself for the important moments, you can ensure that you capture the right shots without causing any disruptions. Attending the rehearsal can be immensely helpful in achieving this.

When it comes to the formal shots, don’t hesitate to take charge. Be assertive, know what you want, and communicate your vision to the couple and their party. As the photographer, you play a leading role in this part of the day, and it’s essential to keep things running smoothly and efficiently.

11. Learn how to use diffused light

The ability to effectively utilize diffused light is crucial in wedding photography as many churches and indoor venues often have low-lighting conditions. If you can use a flash (some churches may not allow it), consider whether bouncing the light off a surface will be suitable (remember that bouncing light off a colored surface can introduce a color cast), or if investing in a flash diffuser to soften the light would be beneficial.

In situations where flash usage is restricted, you will need to rely on a fast lens with a wide aperture and/or increase the ISO setting. Additionally, a lens with image stabilization can be a big help.

Basically, when shooting indoors, you must be well-prepared and equipped to handle challenging low-light environments!

12. Shoot in RAW

Many beginner photographers feel that shooting in RAW is unnecessarily time-consuming due to the additional processing required. However, if you’re dedicated to capturing beautiful wedding moments, committing to working in RAW is crucial.

Shooting in RAW provides a wealth of flexibility when it comes to adjusting your shots afterward. Weddings can pose challenges thanks to varying lighting conditions, so files often require adjustments to exposure and white balance. RAW files significantly aid in these adjustments, allowing you to enhance your photographs effectively.

13. Display your shots at the reception

One of the remarkable advantages of digital photography is its immediacy. Lately, I’ve noticed an exciting trend among photographers: bringing a computer to the reception, uploading shots taken earlier in the day, and showcasing them as a rotating slideshow during the evening. This adds a delightful element to the night, and the wedding couple often loves these photo previews!

Of course, it’s crucial to share only your best shots. And if you shoot in RAW format (which you should, as discussed above!), you’ll need to quickly edit the earlier shots to ensure they’re ready to be displayed.

14. Mind your backgrounds

Weddings are a whirlwind of people, and people have a knack for sneaking into the backgrounds of your precious shots. So before you hit that shutter button, take a moment to consider the backdrop and adjust your composition accordingly.

Note: Even if you manage to find a background free of photobombers, it doesn’t automatically guarantee a jaw-dropping result. Especially with formal shots, it pays to scout the area in advance and seek out picture-perfect backgrounds. That way, you’ll have plenty of go-to options on the big day.

Pro tip: Aim for uncluttered spaces and seek out shaded spots away from harsh sunlight. These beautiful areas will add an extra touch of magic to your frames.

15. Don’t discard your “mistakes”

In the world of digital photography, it’s all too easy to swiftly discard images that don’t immediately meet our expectations. However, let me share a little secret with you: Those so-called mistakes might just hold real artistic charm. Don’t be too hasty to hit the delete button!

Here’s the thing: By keeping those seemingly flawed shots, you open doors to a realm of creative possibilities. Through post-processing wizardry, you can transform these images into captivating pieces of art!

So here’s my advice: stock up on memory cards and refrain from deleting any photos right away. While it’s wise to use your camera’s LCD to assess exposure and composition, ensure that you preserve every single shot you take. Only when you sit down at your computer and carefully examine each image should you evaluate their potential and consider sending some shots to the recycle bin.

16. Change your perspective

Here’s a nifty composition tip:

Get a little adventurous with your shots. While most of the pictures in the final wedding album will likely be taken from the usual eye-level view, it’s a good idea to spice things up by capturing images from different angles. Try getting down low, climbing up high, or shifting to the side.

Don’t hesitate to kneel down, even if it means getting your knees a bit dirty, and search for unique high-angle vantage points like balconies, chairs, or even ladders. (Of course, if you decide to shoot from a lofty height, be sure to exercise caution!)

17. Do a big group shot

At every wedding I’ve had the privilege to photograph, there’s one shot I never miss: a grand picture of every single person in attendance. Here’s how I pull it off: I find a vantage point high above the crowd, such as a tall ladder, a balcony, or even the roof. Then, just after the ceremony has ended, I gather everyone together.

But here’s the trick: You can’t keep the guests waiting forever. You need to swiftly guide them to the designated spot and be ready to snap the shot before they get antsy. To rally the troops, I’ve discovered the best tactic is to escort the newlyweds to the area and enlist a couple of helpers to usher everyone in that direction.

By nailing this group shot, you’ll immortalize the spirit of the wedding and ensure no one is left out!

18. Use fill flash when shooting outside

The sun is shining, the couple is radiant, and the wedding venue is breathtaking. Sometimes, however, capturing the perfect outdoor shots can be a bit tricky. That’s where your trusty flash comes in!

When you’re shooting outside, whether it’s right after the ceremony or during those posed moments, it’s wise to keep your flash attached. This little device can work wonders by adding a touch of extra light to fill in any shadows. Here’s a pro tip: Dial back the flash just a bit, maybe a stop or two, to avoid those overexposed shots.

You might be wondering, “Do I always need fill flash?” Well, not necessarily. But when you find yourself battling against strong backlighting or shooting in the harsh midday sun, fill flash becomes your secret weapon. It helps banish those pesky shadows and ensures your subjects are beautifully illuminated.

19. Use your camera’s continuous shooting mode

When it comes to wedding photography, timing is everything. Being able to seize those key moments is crucial, and even a slight delay can cause you to miss out on capturing an essential photo. That’s why it’s essential to activate your camera’s continuous shooting mode and take advantage of its incredible capabilities.

Different cameras offer varying continuous shooting speeds, so it’s worth investing in one that can handle at least 5-10 frames per second. This will ensure you have the ability to freeze those fleeting moments with precision.

Remember to come prepared with plenty of memory cards. Continuous shooting can quickly devour your storage space, so be ready to swap cards and keep the magic flowing without interruption.

20. Expect the unexpected

Here’s some solid advice I received on my own wedding day: “Things will go wrong, but they can be the best parts of the day.”

In every wedding I’ve had the pleasure of capturing, there’s always been a little hiccup along the way: the best man frantically searching for a missing ring, a sudden downpour drenching the lovebirds just as the ceremony wraps up, the groom unintentionally leaving his fly undone, or the flower girl deciding to take a seat right in the middle of the aisle.

These unexpected surprises might induce a momentary panic, but trust me, they often end up being the highlights that everyone remembers. As a wedding photographer, your job is to seize those moments and immortalize them through your lens. You might just capture some uproariously fun shots that perfectly encapsulate the essence of the day.

During the first wedding I ever photographed, the bride and groom’s car collided with a tram on the way to the park where we planned to take pictures. Chaos ensued: the bride was in tears, the groom was utterly stressed. Yet once the dust settled, a glimmer of optimism emerged. We managed to capture a couple of shots before moving on to the park, and you know what? Those photographs became cherished favorites!

21. Have fun

Weddings are all about celebration and joy. They should be brimming with excitement. As the photographer, your task is to capture those priceless moments of bliss. And guess what? The more fun you have, the more at ease your subjects will feel in front of the camera.

One surefire way to loosen everyone up is to sport a big, genuine smile. Trust me, I’ve mastered the art of grinning from ear to ear at weddings (although I must admit, my jaws and cheeks often ache by the end of the day!). But it’s totally worth it because those infectious smiles light up my images.

Wedding photography tips: final words

We’ve reached the end of our wild wedding photography journey, so I hope you’re ready to capture some epic shots! Wedding photography may seem daunting at first, but with these 21 tips under your belt, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a pro.

Remember that planning is key – but don’t be afraid to embrace the chaos, either. Also, remember to have fun and enjoy the celebration while capturing those precious moments for the happy couple.

Now grab that camera, go forth, and make some wedding photography magic!

Over to you:

Which of these wedding photography tips will you use first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 21 Tips for Breathtaking Wedding Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Sunset photography is fun, rewarding, and often breathtakingly beautiful – but creating stunning sunset shots can be tough, especially for beginners. The bright skies and dark foregrounds lead to exposure problems, while the limited lighting can encourage blur due to camera shake.

That’s where this article comes in handy! Below, I share 15 easy-to-follow tips that’ll instantly improve your sunset images, including:

• How to capture beautiful tones consistently
• How to create balanced, pro-level compositions
• The best type of weather for sunset photos
• A simple trick to make your shots stand out
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to become a sunset photography master, then let’s dive right in.

1. For the best shots, plan ahead

While you can sometimes capture beautiful sunset shots without any forethought, the best shots usually come from real planning.

So scope out places that might be good for sunsets the day or two before your shoot. Look for interesting locations – locations where you can photograph the sun all the way down to the horizon line, and where there will be opportunities for shots that include foreground elements and silhouettes.

The sunset window is often rather short, which is why you want to think about these elements before the sunset begins. Otherwise, you might miss the best shots.

Find out when the sun will set, then arrive at least half an hour beforehand. While you can capture incredible shots of the sun sinking below the horizon, you’ll often encounter plenty of magic in the lead-up to the sunset.

And keep an eye on the weather. There are a variety of different types of sunsets that produce a range of different types of lights and patterns in the sky. Don’t just head out on clear days, because while these can produce some wonderful colors, it’s usually the days with (partial) clouds when the real action happens.

(Also, dust and smoke in the air can produce amazing results, too.)

Consider the equipment you might need. Take a tripod, lenses with a range of focal lengths, and extra batteries. That way, when the sky turns beautiful, you’ll be ready!

2. Use the right camera

Technically speaking, you can capture amazing sunset images using any type of camera, from the cheapest smartphone model to the most expensive medium-format mirrorless unit. But certain cameras do offer advantages, so if you’re serious about sunset (or sunrise) photography, it may make sense to purchase a new model.

For instance, full-frame cameras – especially the latest full-frame mirrorless cameras – offer breathtaking dynamic range. This allows you to capture dark shadows and bright highlights in a single frame, which comes in handy if you prefer to photograph the sunset in a single shot (as opposed to using a bracketing or HDR approach). These full-frame cameras also offer impressive low-light performance, and while this isn’t a huge deal if you plan to shoot in decent light and use a tripod, it can make a big difference if you choose to shoot handheld or at night.

It’s also a good idea to grab a camera with a decent number of megapixels. Most modern mirrorless cameras offer at least 20 MP, but it pays to purchase a 30 MP, 40 MP, or even 60 MP model, especially if you want to create large prints from your photos.

The specific camera you buy will depend on your interests, your budget, and your brand of choice, but a few great options are the Sony a7R IV, the Canon EOS R5, and the Nikon Z7 II. (Note that the best sunset photography cameras overlap almost perfectly with the best landscape photography cameras, so you can always check out our landscape camera recommendations!)

3. Shoot at a variety of focal lengths

Most sunsets are photographed with wide-angle lenses, and these focal lengths can make for beautiful images. A lens in the 10-30mm range will give you sweeping shots of your sunset scene.

However, if you want the sun itself to be a main feature of the shot, you’ll need to zoom on in. The sun is just half a degree across, so when you shoot with a wide-angle lens, the sun will be tiny in the frame. If you want to highlight the sun, you’ll need to zoom in with a 200mm lens or longer. (This, in turn, will increase your need for a tripod, which I discuss below.)

Also, be hyper-aware of eye-safety concerns because looking at the sun is always dangerous. And it’s even more dangerous when you look at it through a telephoto lens. So if you do include the sun in your composition, never look through your camera’s optical viewfinder. Instead, use Live View to check your composition and exposure on the rear LCD.

(If you use a mirrorless camera, this won’t be an issue. You can safely look at the sun through an electronic viewfinder.)

4. Use the rule of thirds to improve your sunset photography compositions

The rule of thirds states that you should position key elements of your scene a third of the way into the frame. So instead of putting the horizon in the center of the landscape composition, put it toward the top or the bottom, like this:

Do you see how the horizon is a third of the way up from the bottom? That’s what the rule of thirds suggests.

And it’s not just about horizons. You can also use the rule of thirds to position the sun, foreground elements, background elements, you name it.

Of course, the rule of thirds isn’t a requirement. And you can break the rule of thirds for stunning results in certain situations. But in general, the rule of thirds is a great starting point – so unless you have a good reason to do otherwise, I highly recommend you follow it!

5. Experiment with different exposures (to achieve a magical result)

When doing sunset photography, you should always shoot with a semi-automatic or Manual mode. Don’t let your camera dictate your settings for you (in other words: get off Auto mode immediately!). So before starting a sunset shoot, switch your camera over to Aperture Priority mode, Shutter Priority mode, or Manual mode.

And don’t just take one shot using one exposure. Instead, take a variety of shots at different exposures.

While you can try a “standard” exposure based on your camera’s recommendation, don’t be afraid to underexpose by raising your shutter speed or narrowing your aperture. And don’t be afraid to overexpose by doing the opposite.

The great thing about sunsets is that there is no one “right” exposure. You can get stunning results with underexposure and overexposure; the key is to experiment.

(Personally, I tend to start with a relatively quick shutter speed, then slowly work down to slower shutter speeds for brighter, more luminous shots.)

6. Bracket often

In the previous tip, I talked about experimenting with different exposures. But if you want to take a more formal exposure approach, I’d recommend using a bracketing technique.

Here’s how it works:

First, take a photo using your camera’s suggested settings.

Then adjust the settings (either manually or via exposure compensation) to slightly underexpose the photo. Take a shot. And then adjust the settings to slightly overexpose the photo. In other words, if your camera says to shoot at f/8, you would take your first shot at f/8, as recommended. But your second shot would be at f/5.6, and your third shot would be at f/11. That way, you’d end up with a “standard” shot, a darker shot, and a brighter shot, all of which will give you different colors and effects.

It’s a good way to guide your experimentation, and it’s also a good way to create “insurance” photos – so that, if you overexpose the standard shot on accident, you still have a darker file on your memory card. Make sense?

7. Auto Exposure Lock is your friend

Bracketing can be a lot of fun, but it also takes time – and if you only have time for a shot or two, it’s not the most precise way to create a well-exposed image. That’s where Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) comes in handy.

Using AEL is simple. First, you point your camera at the area of the scene you want perfectly exposed, such as a beautiful foreground feature. Then lock the exposure. Finally, reframe the picture (while maintaining the exposure lock).

Basically, it lets you determine the exposure without interference from the ultra-bright sunset, which can wreak havoc on a camera’s meter.

Also note that you can use Auto Exposure Lock to create beautiful silhouettes; just point your camera at the brightest part of the sky, lock the exposure, and then reframe with a foreground subject. The result will look like this:

8. Experiment with different angles

Once you’ve got started with sunset photography, you may be tempted to constantly shoot from the same chest- or eye-level vantage point. After all, if it isn’t broken, there’s no reason to fix it, right?

On the one hand, this standard vantage point will get you great shots. And there’s nothing wrong with applying a certain compositional tactic across many photoshoots.

But eventually, you may want to capture images that stand out from the pack – and a great way to do this is by varying your angle.

Instead of always placing your camera on your fully extended tripod and pointing it at the horizon, try to mix it up. For instance, you can:

• Get down low to emphasize the foreground
• Find a high vantage point to produce unique overhead shots
• Shoot from an oblique angle for a more energized composition
• Shoot through a foreground subject to give a feeling of peeking out at the sunset

Of course, don’t give up the more conventional approach completely, but do try these other perspectives and see what you think!

9. Shoot in RAW whenever possible

Many photographers, especially when they’re starting out, are inclined to capture JPEG images, which are small, highly shareable, and require no special editing.

But while JPEGs are convenient, they come at a cost: When your camera creates a JPEG, it compresses the image data, which ultimately results in less information in the file. RAW files, on the other hand, contain all the image data from the moment of capture, which offers several major advantages, including:

• RAW files have more color information, so it’s easier to push colors in different directions without introducing unpleasant banding effects
• RAW files have more tonal information, so you can recover detail in the shadows and the highlights that is completely lost in JPEG files

In sunset photography, when you’re often working with lots of gorgeous colors and a huge dynamic range, the ability to make these tweaks and recover lost information is invaluable. And while RAW files don’t look as stunning as JPEGs right off the bat, you only need a little bit of editing knowledge to make them look incredible!

Note that you will need some form of RAW processing software to make your files shareable, but there are plenty of amazing programs out there, including paid options like Lightroom Classic and Photoshop, as well as free programs like RawTherapee.

10. For the best colors, get off Auto White Balance

Your white balance setting adjusts the temperature of the colors in your scene. So depending on the white balance, you’ll end up with a cooler (bluer) photo or a warmer (redder) photo.

When the white balance is set to Auto, your camera will automatically deal with the color temperature. And while this can sometimes work, it often gives subpar results – where you lose the warm golden tones of your sunset.

Therefore, instead of using Auto White Balance, switch your camera to the Cloudy or Shade presets, which will warm things up a little. Alternatively, if you’re shooting a sunset and you do want a cooler, moody shot, you can experiment with other white balance settings, such as Incandescent.

One more thing:

If you shoot in RAW, it’s true that you can always tweak the white balance during post-processing. However, this is often pretty inconvenient; after all, how much time do you want to spend adjusting the white balance in front of your computer? That’s why it’s worth getting the white balance right in-camera.

11. Always bring a tripod for the sharpest results

If you’re shooting at longer shutter speeds, such as 1/60s and beyond, then a tripod makes a huge difference. It’ll keep your camera stable – so that your files remain tack sharp.

When you’re out doing sunset photography, you don’t need to start the shoot with a tripod, because the minutes leading up to a sunset bring plenty of light.

But as the sun sinks on the horizon, a tripod will become more and more necessary. (And by the time the sun is gone, a tripod will be absolutely essential.)

Note that you might want to use a tripod for your whole photoshoot, especially if you plan to capture long exposures that feature moving water, like this one:

What if you don’t have a tripod or you forget to bring one? In such cases, I recommend you stabilize your camera against an object. You can put it on the hood of a car, or you can just set it on the ground; whatever allows you to minimize movement as much as possible.

12. Use a remote release or a two-second timer

If you’re using a tripod to capture your sunset images, then you’ve already removed one major source of blur: shake due to handholding.

However, it’s also important to address another source of blur: the vibrations created when you press the shutter button. You may not realize it, but every time you press that shutter button, you’re creating a slight amount of vibration – and if your shutter speed is slow enough, that vibration will blur the image.

Fortunately, there are two easy methods to avoid this problem:

• Use a remote release, which allows you to trigger the shutter without actually touching the shutter button
• Use your camera’s two-second self-timer, which gives the camera vibrations a few seconds to die down before the shutter actually fires

A remote release tends to be a bit more convenient, plus it helps with timing if you’re photographing waves – but a two-second self-timer is built right into your camera, so it’s the easier and cheaper route.

13. Don’t be afraid to focus manually

We all love autofocus – but sometimes, when shooting in extreme lighting conditions, autofocus just won’t get the job done. Your lens will hunt all around, and the shot will end up out of focus.

That’s where manual focus comes in handy.

Now, not all lenses support manual focus. Some only allow for autofocusing, in which case you’re out of luck.

But many lenses do let you focus manually (and you can generally activate manual focus by pushing the AF/MF switch on the lens barrel to MF).

So when your lens starts to hunt, don’t fret; just swap over to manual focus and keep shooting!

14. Shoot more than just the sunset

Here’s one of the many wonderful things about sunsets:

They don’t just create wonderful colors in the sky; they also cast a beautiful golden light that is great for other types of photography!

So as the sunset progresses, keep an eye on other photographic opportunities around you. For instance, you can capture portrait, landscape, or macro shots. In the light of the setting sun, it’ll all turn out amazing!

15. Keep shooting (even after the sun is gone)

A sunset constantly changes over time – which means that every additional minute is an opportunity for a different shot.

So don’t take a few shots and call it an evening. Instead, stick around and photograph the sun as it goes down. You can continue to capture the same composition, or you can test out different compositions; the key is to keep your camera out and your finger on the shutter button.

Also make sure to capture different exposures (bracket!) and consider working with different focal lengths, as I’ve discussed above.

And finally:

Don’t pack up once the sun is gone. The period after the sun has disappeared – called the blue hour – can be great for photography, too, thanks to its beautiful colors and ethereal light. So if you still have the energy, keep finding compositions until the colors have vanished completely from the horizon.

Sunset photography tips: conclusion

Now that you know these tips, you’re well on your way to capturing some stunning sunset photography of your own.

So the next time the sun starts to get low in the sky…

…grab your camera and head outside!

Amazing images await.

Now over to you:

Which of these sunset photography tips is your favorite? Are you going to use any of them the next time you photograph a sunset? Share your thoughts (and sunset photos) in the comments below!

The post 15 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion, and mood. They often stand out thanks to their simplicity and incredible storytelling capabilities.

But creating perfect silhouette photography can be hard – which is where this article comes in handy. Below, I share tips and tricks that are perfect for silhouettes, including:

• How to choose the right subject
• How to handle different lighting scenarios
• How to choose the best settings
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to discover how to shoot gorgeous silhouettes consistently, let’s dive right in!

1. Choose a strong subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette. However, some objects work better for silhouettes than others.

First, I recommend choosing a subject that has a strong and recognizable shape – one that’ll be interesting in its two-dimensional form. Silhouettes can’t draw on colors, textures, and tones to make themselves appealing, so the shape needs to be distinct.

People make great silhouette subjects, but if they’re doing something interesting – running, jumping, or riding a bike – the shot will look even better. The best silhouette shots often feature props, such as a bike, a basketball, or a skateboard.

2. Make sure your flash is off

Silhouette photograph often involves shooting in dim light (at the start and the end of the day), and most silhouette subjects look pretty dark, too. Therefore, if you have your camera in Auto mode, it may try to turn on the flash, which will ruin the shot.

You see, to capture a silhouette, you need to have as little light as possible on the front of your subject. The goal is to keep the subject dark and the background bright, not the other way around.

So make sure that flash is off! You may need to set your camera to Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode to control the flash (and as I discuss below, these modes are highly useful for silhouette shooting anyway!).

3. Get the light right

Silhouette lighting doesn’t work like normal photographic lighting. To capture a conventional shot, you generally want to ensure that your subject is lit from the front (so that the sun is coming from over your shoulder and striking your subject) or the side (so that the sun is off to your right or left and is striking one half of the subject).

But when you’re shooting silhouettes, you’ll need to reverse this approach. Find the scene’s main light source, then ensure that it’s shining from the back of the subject, not the front. Remember, the goal is to keep the background bright and the subject dark. You don’t need the light to come from directly behind the subject, but the brighter the background, the better.

That’s why it’s easy to create silhouettes at sunrise or sunset; you can position yourself so that you’re shooting into the low sun, and you can frame the dark subject with the bright sky in the background. However, it is possible to capture silhouettes during the middle of the day. You just have to figure out a way to shoot your subject against strong light. For instance, you can:

• Crouch down so that your subjects are framed against the high afternoon sun
• Photograph from below (e.g., folks walking over a bridge)
• Seek out shadowy subjects walking by a brightly lit wall
• Photograph indoors against a bright window

4. Frame your subject with negative space

Even once you’ve chosen the right subject and found the right light, you’ll need to pay careful attention to your composition. The best silhouette shots tend to feature a single subject (or group of subjects) surrounded by empty space, like this:

The empty space (also known as negative space) helps the shot breathe, and it also focuses the viewer on the main subject.

One trick is to shoot when the sky is bright and cloudless; that way, you don’t have to deal with any distracting clouds. You might also try photographing in areas with lots of empty space (e.g., fields, grassy plains, parking lots).

That said, you can also capture fantastic silhouettes that feature more than just a subject plus negative space. Don’t restrict yourself, but do make sure that you only include subjects that contribute to the shot.

5. Prevent shape intersections

If your silhouette composition includes multiple shapes, do your best to keep them separate. A person walking can look great, and a tree can look great, but if the person and the tree overlap, you’ll end up with a confusing mess. The two shapes will merge into one, and the viewer won’t know what’s happening.

Instead, carefully observe the scene and isolate only those shapes that are highly distinct. If you want to include multiple shapes that are currently overlapping, try changing your angle until the shapes separate.

Alternatively, if you’re photographing a moving subject, you can always wait until it changes position.

One related tip: If you’re photographing people, you probably want to silhouette them in profile, not head-on. That way, their features (nose, mouth, and eyes) will be outlined, and they’ll be more recognizable to the viewer.

6. Carefully adjust your exposure for the best results

Most modern cameras are pretty good at exposing photos so that everything is nice and bright. That can cause a problem; after all, you don’t want your subject to turn out nice and bright in a silhouette shot.

So what do you do? You trick your camera.

Simply set the camera to your shooting mode of choice (Aperture Priority can work great for this, but you can try Auto mode, too). Then point your camera at the brightest part of the scene and press the shutter button halfway. On many cameras, this will set the exposure, and as long as you keep the shutter button half-pressed, it’ll remain locked in.

Next, while still partially depressing the shutter button, point your camera at your subject and frame up your composition. Finally, press the shutter button the rest of the way.

With most digital cameras, this will result in a silhouetted subject! Pointing your camera at the bright part of the scene will cause your camera to darken the exposure – and then, when you do take the shot, the main subject will be rendered as a dark silhouette.

Note that some cameras also have a spot metering mode that helps with the above technique. Spot metering causes the camera to set the exposure based on the central part of your frame; with it, you can tell your camera the exact portion of bright background you want to use to determine the exposure. So if you’re not getting the shots you want using the technique discussed above, you can always try switching your metering mode and see if that helps.

7. Try shooting in Manual mode

The technique I discussed above often works well, but if you want even more control over your settings, I’d really recommend shooting in Manual mode.

Manual mode lets you input each and every exposure variable on your own. It can be a little difficult at first, but after a few hours of practice, you’ll get the hang of it.

Once your camera is set to Manual, I’d recommend dialing in a low ISO (100 is a good starting value) and a mid-level aperture (such as f/6.3). Then point your camera at the brightest part of the scene, and adjust the shutter speed until the exposure bar in the viewfinder is balanced.

Take the first shot and review the results on your camera’s LCD. If the image looks too dark, you can always lower the shutter speed, and if the image looks too bright, you can always increase the shutter speed instead.

(If you’re working with very limited light and your shots are turning out dark, you can also widen the aperture or boost the ISO to increase the exposure, but do so sparingly; widening the aperture will limit the area of the photo that’s in focus, while boosting the ISO will add unwanted noise to the image!)

I’d also recommend capturing the same shot using a variety of different exposures – just so you have slightly darker and slightly lighter versions as backup files.

8. Take steps to keep the subject sharp

The best silhouette photograph tends to feature sharp, in-focus subjects.

Unfortunately, this can make the automatic metering process – described in Tip 6 – somewhat tricky. You see, pushing your shutter halfway down to get the metering right also means that your camera will focus on a spot in the background rather than on your subject.

If you’re using the Manual mode shared above, you won’t run into any issues. You can always acquire your exposure settings by pointing your camera at the background, dialing them in, then focusing on your subject. But if you prefer the Auto mode strategy, then you have two options.

First, if your camera offers manual focusing, you can prefocus on your subject. Then, when you meter off the background, the point of focus won’t change. You can effectively frame up your composition before triggering the shutter.

Second, you can try adjusting the aperture to maximize your depth of field (i.e., the amount of your image that is in focus). For this, you’ll need to set a small aperture (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16).

If the f-number is large enough and your subject isn’t too close to the camera, you’ll end up with a sharp subject and a sharp background, even if your camera is focused on the area behind your subject.

9. Try partial silhouette photography

While a total silhouette with a crisp, dark subject can be powerful, also consider capturing some partial silhouettes. I’m talking about photos that include some detail on the subject, like this:

As you can see, the subjects are dark, but they’re not completely dark, and you can still see a bit of detail in the sand and the subjects’ clothes.

Sometimes, a touch of light makes the subject slightly more three-dimensional and real, which – depending on your goals – can work well. Plus, a bit of extra detail can add to the mysterious feel of the image.

And if you’re not sure whether to create a full silhouette or a partial silhouette, that’s okay; just bracket your shots! That’s the beauty of bracketing: it will leave you with both total and partial silhouettes to choose from.

10. Don’t just photograph people

Most silhouette photographers focus on people, and people do make great silhouette subjects. But you can also capture beautiful – and original – shots by focusing on other interesting objects.

For instance, you can create silhouettes of staircases (by getting down low and shooting upward), buildings, pets, planes, cars, and so much more.

Really, whenever you see a subject with a compelling shape, see if you can position yourself so that you have a nice backlighting effect, then try to shoot a clear silhouette. You’ll often fail to get the result you’re after, but occasionally the photos will look amazing.

11. Use a flash as your main light source

Throughout this article, I’ve talked about photographing silhouettes using natural light. But did you know that you can capture gorgeous shots using flash, too? One benefit of flash silhouette photography is that you can completely control the light direction and strength, which allows you to achieve all sorts of cool effects.

Working with flash can be a bit intimidating, but the goal is simply to make the background brighter than the subject. Position your subject in front of a light-colored backdrop (such as a white wall), point the flash at the wall, then take some shots, with the goal of overexposing the background while underexposing the subject.

You might also try positioning the flash behind your subject so that it’s pointed directly at their back; this will create a rim-lit effect, which can look wonderfully artistic.

12. Spend some time processing your silhouette photos

Even if you nail the silhouette exposure in camera, I’d recommend making a few minor tweaks using an editing program like Lightroom.

First, adjust the white balance until you get the results you want, then raise or lower the exposure to add or remove detail on the subject. You can also adjust specific tonal sliders for a more refined effect.

If you’re after a punchy silhouette shot, try adding some contrast – and if the image features a beautiful sunrise or sunset in the background, consider boosting the vibrance or the saturation.

Finally, experiment by adding a vignette, creating an eye-catching color grade, or selectively dodging and burning different parts of the image.

Silhouette photography: conclusion

Well, there you have it:

Our top 12 tips for photographing amazing silhouettes.

So head out when the light is right, remember the composition and settings advice I shared above, and start doing some silhouette photography of your own!

Now over to you:

Have any silhouette tips or photos you’d like to share? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes: 12 Tips for Breathtaking Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.

After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.

In this article, I share 14 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.

Let’s dive right in!

1. If disaster strikes, stop shooting

If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.

Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.

If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.

2. Avoid deleting images one by one on your camera

Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.

The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.

(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)

3. Remove cards safely from your computer

It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.

But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.

(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)

4. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card

These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.

I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).

5. Avoid filling your cards completely

My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.

Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.

6. Periodically reformat your cards

This memory card tip is quick but essential:

Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!

7. Format your memory cards in the right camera

As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.

For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.

8. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card

Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.

(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)

9. Keep your camera up to date

Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.

Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.

10. Periodically update your cards

Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.

Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!

11. Replace batteries before they die

When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.

You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!

12. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting

This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.

However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.

13. Keep your memory cards safe

Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.

Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.

That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!

14. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost

This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.

Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!

How to use camera memory cards: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.

So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.

Now over to you:

Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Correctly Use Camera Memory Cards: 14 Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Looking to capture photos that portray the warmth, the spirit, and the festive cheer of Christmas? Christmas photography is a lot of fun, but there are a few simple techniques you can use to keep your photos looking crisp, bright, and beautiful!

In this article, I share 15 easy tips and ideas for breathtaking shots, including:

• The best Christmas photo settings
• How to choose the perfect subjects
• How to prepare for a Christmas photoshoot
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to capture some amazing images this holiday season, then let’s dive right in!

1. Get ready in advance

Preparing to capture the Christmas festivities is key to a successful shoot. You should get yourself ready by making sure that:

• You pack the camera (one year, I forgot mine in the rush to get the car ready to go)
• Your batteries are charged and you have either backups or a recharger
• You have extra memory cards (and all of the cards are empty and ready to go)

I also recommend thinking about a few location-related elements in advance. For instance, what will the lighting be like where you plan to celebrate Christmas? Will it be bright? Dim? Will you be outdoors? Inside? Will there be lots of window light? Will you need a flash? You can also check the weather; clouds and sun can make a big difference.

You might also consider enlisting a helper in advance – someone in the family who will help keep people focused and ready to go for photos when the time comes for group shots.

2. Carefully set your white balance

Here in Australia, we often celebrate Christmas outdoors, but many people around the world do it inside under artificial lighting.

If you’ll be working with artificial light, pay attention to the type of light you encounter and set your white balance accordingly. If you’re really serious, you can even set a custom white balance using a gray card!

(That said, if you set your camera to RAW and you don’t mind spending a bit of extra time at the computer, you can shoot away and set your white balance during post-processing.)

3. Set up a DIY photo booth

While most of us probably can’t afford to hire a photo booth for our Christmas parties, you can always set up a “portrait zone” of your own so you can take photos of guests.

I did this a few years ago; I set up a little place, and I asked everyone who came to the festivities to sit for me so that I could take a nice shot of them.

I photographed everyone as they came in. Then I left the camera (a point-and-shoot model) set up on a tripod so people could photograph themselves as the party continued. I made sure the camera was in a well-lit spot, and I even used a red velvet curtain-type background with a few Christmassy decorations around the edges. I also left a few Santa hats and tinsel for people to use as props.

In the end, the shots were great! People went back to my photo booth throughout the party, and the photos got crazier and crazier as time went on. Plus, everyone had a great time taking shots!

4. Capture the Christmas preparations

The actual Christmas meal or party is the best part of the day, but there are other photos worth taking, especially during those essential preparation stages. For instance, you can capture gorgeous shots of:

• Food being made
• Decorations being hung
• Gifts being wrapped
• Kids throwing tantrums as they’re dressed in Christmas outfits
• Tables being set

The shots before the main event actually starts are often great because they show everything at its best before everyone descends on the party zone.

5. Take some before and after shots

Here’s another quick Christmas photography idea:

Arrive early to the location of the festivities, set up in advance, and capture some shots just before people walk in the door.

And then, once the party is over, take shots once again. For the best results, make sure you take the shots from the same position. That way, you can compare them side by side and see the exact effects of the party!

6. Try a time-lapse Christmas series

I have a friend who set up his computer with a webcam in the corner of the room. The camera looked down on the Christmas table, and it was set to go off every five minutes over the course of the day. He ended up with one of the most wonderful series of shots that I’ve seen in a long time!

So why not try to do the same? You don’t need to use a webcam; any camera will do, including a smartphone. Just set it up in advance to shoot images at regular intervals, then come back at the end of the event and grab it. I bet you’ll love the images!

7. Photograph the Christmas lights

Good Christmas light shots look incredible – but photographing Christmas lights isn’t the easiest. A few quick recommendations:

• Use a wide aperture for a shallow depth-of-field effect
• Make sure that the lights are well exposed (even if it means letting the background fall into darkness)
• Experiment with different points of focus (try using your lens’s manual focus setting if you’re struggling)

8. Include a focal point in your photos

The problem with Christmas events is that there is so much color, lighting, and people that all the different subjects compete for attention. If you include too many elements, the viewer will be confused and the image just won’t work.

On the other hand, if you identify a single focal point and exclude any potential distractions, the final image will look far better! In my view, all good shots have a focal point that holds the attention of the viewer. So work hard to declutter your images. Figure out the item you want to emphasize, and then compose the entire shot with it in mind.

9. Take group photos at the beginning

Group photos are a Christmas photography classic! However, these shots are usually taken at the end of the day or late in the evening when everyone is at their worst.

Instead, for a fresher shot, take the group photos as soon as everyone arrives. Also, think beforehand about how you might pose everyone and where you might take the shot.

10. Shoot in Burst mode as needed

There are certain moments during a Christmas gathering that are filled with photographic opportunities. When people are opening gifts, for instance, you’re generally faced with an array of emotions and facial expressions (especially if kids are involved).

So instead of trying to time your shots just right, switch your camera to Burst mode (also known as continuous shooting mode) and take lots of images when the excitement begins. That way, you can capture everything: The anticipation of getting the wrapped gift, the fun of unwrapping, and the joy (or occasionally disappointment) of seeing what’s inside.

(Don’t forget to shoot the reactions of those who give the gift, as well.)

11. Fill the frame

It’s one of the most common Christmas photography mistakes: People photograph from across the room, so they end up portraying their subjects off in the distance with lots of space around them. The resulting images lack impact – but they could easily be so much better if the photographer just filled the frame!

So use your zoom or physically move yourself closer, then fill the frame with your subject. This is one of the simplest tips I can give, but it’s one that can have a seriously profound impact on your shots.

12. Diffuse or bounce your flash

If you live in a colder area, Christmas gatherings will be taking place indoors, and you’ll be tempted to use a flash to brighten up the dark interiors. However, if you do use a flash, you risk creating shots that are so bright that the subjects look like rabbits in a spotlight (with harsh shadows in the background).

Fortunately, you can get around this by using a flash diffuser or reflector. Another option – if you have an external flash – is to bounce it off the walls or the ceiling.

If you’re struggling to get good shots while using your flash, however, you can always put it away, adjust your lens’s aperture to its widest setting, and raise your camera’s ISO until you get a good exposure. You do risk adding unwanted noise to your images, but modern-day cameras produce minimal noise even at ISO 1600 and beyond.

13. Try going macro

Many lenses can focus fairly close, so why not try zooming on in and photographing the smaller items around your party?

Ornaments on the tree, table decorations, sweets in the bowl on the table, a nativity scene on the mantlepiece, holly above the doorway; sometimes it’s these small things that are the real money shots!

14. Watch your aperture

I often shoot in Aperture Priority mode during Christmas events, and I’m constantly changing the aperture depending on my subject.

For example, when taking shots of a Christmas decoration on the tree, I’ll select a large aperture (e.g., f/2.8) to throw the background out of focus and create a beautiful blur effect.

However, when I’m photographing everyone eating at the table, I’ll choose a small aperture (e.g., f/11) to keep everyone in focus.

And I’d encourage you to do the same! Don’t just set your lens aperture and forget about it; instead, spend time adjusting the aperture to suit the subject. (If you’re not sure what aperture to choose, just experiment! There’s nothing wrong with trying out a few different values to see what you get.)

15. Explore your neighborhood

If your neighborhood is anything like mine, then you have a near-unlimited number of photographic opportunities all around you! Christmas carolers, houses covered in Christmas decorations, shopping malls filled with festive cheer; it all makes for great photos.

So get out there with your camera and capture the fun. Christmas really is a wonderful time of year to spend time behind the camera!

Christmas photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

15 tips to improve your Christmas photos! So grab your camera, do a bit of preparation, and enjoy your Christmas gatherings!

Now over to you:

Which of these techniques do you plan to use first? Do you have any other tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 15 Christmas Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

I’ve recently been creating AI images with Midjourney, and I’ve had some people push back on my work – so I thought maybe it’d be helpful to see the full process. My hope is that, after reading this article, you can see that working with AI to create images is not just about plugging in a few words and watching as the program spits out great photos.

I’m sure not everyone will use Midjourney this way, but for what it’s worth, I’ve included step-by-step instructions for producing AI images, and I’ve also included example photos to show the approach in action. Here is one of the images that I created using this process:

I should note that I don’t mind people pushing back on using AI. I think it’s a debate that needs to be had, and I, too, have some concerns about AI’s use and how it will impact artists. We need to continue to talk about it, but I would love for artists to see how AI can be used as part of their creative process.

I do hope this post helps with that! Also, I’d love to hear about other people’s processes and am happy to answer any questions in the comments below. And if you want to connect or see more of my work, I’m on Instagram. I don’t use this process for all of my shots, though.

1. Idea generation

For me, coming up with an idea is part of the creative process. The idea for the series featured in this article came from a brainstorming process as well as my recent time spent in Greece, where I visited numerous ancient ruins and wondered who the people who built them were.

2. Prompting

I see the writing of words as a creative process, though some images take more creativity than others.

Over the last handful of weeks, I’ve learned how to order my words effectively and what words produce what kinds of images. I draw on my 40 years of experience behind the camera to use words related to photographic lighting, camera settings, etc., to tell the AI what I want. And I draw on my knowledge of composition, color, and what makes an image good.

I also try to bring some words into the prompts that will create an atmosphere or mood in my images. I then run these initial prompts to see what I get.

3. Refining and iterating with images and words

Once I see what the AI creates, I then refine the words, experiment with different ordering of the words, add new words, etc. This process takes many iterations to get a series like this (I’d estimate up to 100).

Sometimes I will add into the mix a photo that I myself have taken to see how that impacts the images that the AI is producing. In this case, I used a picture I took of one of my kids under studio lighting conditions to see if it might help create specific lighting effects:

The idea was to create a series of images taken under modern-day studio lighting yet depicting people from an ancient civilization.

4. Further refining

At that point, I take the best images that the AI produces and run some of them back through the program to teach it what I like (iterating it further).

Sometimes I take two, three, or more images and run them together with different prompts to see if I can improve the results.

In this case, some of the images that the AI gave me based on the image of my son were decent, but the subjects were a little too clean and perhaps younger than I wanted:

So I added words that made the subject look older, dirtier, and scruffier:

After a few more iterations, the program produced this set of photos:

But I wanted to take it even further:

My approach is to continue running the best images, together with various prompts, to evolve the shots the way I want them to go (developing the characters further). Here is my near-final result:

5. Post-processing

I then take the images I’m most happy with and sometimes tweak them in Photoshop. I rarely add much, but I do sometimes heal blemishes or retouch the images (as I would adjust a photo that I captured with my camera).

6. Upsizing and additional adjusting

Before I’m ready to share my photos, I’ll run them through Topaz’s AI software. I’ll do upsizing, sharpening, denoising, etc., until I’m happy with the result.

7. Publishing

I then publish the images to my Instagram, which sometimes involves creativity, as I’ll describe the images or what prompted me to produce them.

Creating AI images: final words

So yes; I see this as a creative process. It usually takes hours and is something I will often do over days.

The series of images that I ultimately produced took hundreds and hundreds of iterations and many hours. Not all of them evolved from the image of my son that you see, but most did draw on it or other images I have taken.

I hope this process helps those who are using the tool to develop their images and offers some insight for those who doubt that AI photography can be a creative process.

I’m sure other people are also using AI creatively, and I hope this might stimulate some interesting discussion. So be sure to share your thoughts (and your AI images) in the comments below!

The post How to Create AI Images: A Quick Tutorial appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Rainbows make amazing photographic subjects – but capturing a rainbow in all its glory can be surprisingly difficult. For the best shots, you need to:

1. Find a stunning rainbow
2. Select the right settings
3. Arrange a beautiful composition
4. Apply careful post-processing

It’s enough to make anyone overwhelmed – but don’t fret! In this article, I explain everything you need to know for amazing rainbow photography, including handy tips to improve your compositions, pick the right settings, level up your post-processing, and more.

So if you’re ready to learn all the secrets to photographing rainbows, then let’s dive right in!

1. Find a beautiful rainbow

If you want to capture stunning rainbow photography, then – obviously! – you’ll need to find a subject.

This is often the hardest part of the process; in many locations, rainbows are a relatively rare occurrence, and when they do appear, it’s often completely out of the blue.

Rainbows are formed when sunlight is refracted by water, so you should look out for rainbows when you have two elements present:

1. Falling/spraying water droplets
2. Bright sunlight

Therefore, keep an eye on the sky when a storm is approaching or just wrapping up. You can also look for smaller rainbows around waterfalls, fountains, and even sprinklers.

Note that rainbow visibility also depends on the angle of the sun. You won’t ever see a rainbow when the sun is high in the sky (e.g., at noon in the summer in many latitudes). Specifically, the sun must be at an angle of 42 degrees or lower (relative to the earth) for a rainbow to be visible, so it’s often futile to search for rainbows in the middle of the day.

Instead, make sure you head out at least a few hours from high noon (and before or after storms). Make sense?

2. Use a narrow aperture for a sharp scene

The best rainbow photos tend to feature a sharp rainbow in the background and a sharp foreground, so it’s important you adjust your camera settings to ensure you have lots of depth of field. (Depth of field refers to the window of sharpness in your photo; in rainbow photography, more depth of field is generally better!)

Start by setting your camera to Manual mode. Then dial in a relatively narrow aperture – such as f/8, f/11, and beyond – to achieve plenty of depth of field. You’ll also need to carefully focus about a third of the way into the scene, which will maximize sharpness by keeping both the foreground and the background in focus.

Note that a narrower aperture will let in less light, so to produce a bright image, you’ll need to compensate by boosting your ISO or slowing down your shutter speed. I’d recommend against raising your ISO, as higher ISOs produce image-degrading noise. Instead, lower that shutter speed, but make sure you follow my next tip:

3. Never forget your tripod

As you now know, you’ll generally want to use a narrow aperture and a slower shutter speed for the best results. Unless the light is strong, you’ll often need to drop the shutter speed to 1/80s or below – which will lead to blur due to camera shake if you try to shoot handheld.

That’s where a tripod comes in handy. Mount your camera to a sturdy tripod, and you won’t need to worry about lowering your shutter speed to 1/80s, 1/30s, or even 5s. That’s why I encourage you to always travel with a tripod!

In fact, because rainbows often appear so suddenly, it’s a good idea to keep a tripod in the trunk of your car. That way, if you see a rainbow on the horizon, you can bring out your camera, whip out that tripod, and get a sharp, well-exposed photo.

Plus, even when you have enough light to photograph handheld, a tripod can still come in handy. It’ll force you to slow down your shooting process, and as a result, you’ll be able to find gorgeous compositions that you might not have noticed otherwise.

4. Use exposure bracketing to prevent clipping

Even if you carefully select a good aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, correctly exposing your rainbow photos can be tricky. On the one hand, you need to ensure that you capture plenty of detail in the foreground. On the other hand, you need to ensure that you capture plenty of detail in the sky.

But because the sky is so much brighter than the foreground, cameras – especially older cameras – can struggle to retain detail in both the dark foreground and bright sky areas. They’ll clip the scene, which means they’ll produce blown-out highlights or pitch-black shadows. And as you can probably guess, this does not look good.

So what do you do? How do you retain detail in both the foreground and the sky of your rainbow shots?

One option is to use a graduated neutral density filter, which will darken the sky while leaving the foreground untouched. It’s a fine strategy, but ND grads can be pretty expensive, plus they can be somewhat inflexible when working with certain soft-edged subjects. That’s why I prefer a more versatile alternative:

Exposure bracketing.

With your camera mounted on a tripod, simply capture one image that includes plenty of detail in the foreground, one image that includes plenty of detail in the sky, and one image that falls in between.

You can do this in a few different ways, but if you’re working in Manual mode, just start with a fast(er) shutter speed (for the sky shot), then lower it a stop or two (for the mid-level shot) and lower it again (for the foreground shot).

Then, when you get back home, blend the three images using your favorite post-processing software (it’s easy to do in Lightroom or Photoshop). Your final file will include plenty of detail in the sky and in the foreground.

5. Pay attention to the background

A rainbow isn’t a solid object. Therefore, for the best results, you must photograph in front of a background that helps the colors stand out. A too-bright or busy background will detract from the rainbow, and the viewer may even fail to take notice.

Ideally, you should aim for a darker background (think dark clouds, dark rock, or mountains) that’s as uncluttered as possible. Note how the dark colors of the cliffs serve to enhance the rainbow colors in this next image:

Of course, it’s not always possible to swap out a bad background for a good one when you’re out shooting, but you can often change your angle to get a better result. Another option is to zoom in (either with your lens or with your feet) and focus on just part of the rainbow – that is, the part that’s in front of a good background.

6. Include eye-catching foregrounds

While capturing a rainbow against a mountain or dark sky certainly looks nice, after a while, it can feel a little…boring. Instead, why not take your rainbow photos to the next level by combining a powerful foreground with a beautiful sky?

A foreground subject serves several purposes. It can add interest, it can draw in the viewer, and it can complement the sky. It can also balance out the composition, and/or it can lead the eye straight toward the rainbow in the background. In other words, if you can include a foreground subject, you should; the results are almost always great!

Now, you might be wondering: What kind of foregrounds work in rainbow shots?

You can use pretty much anything you can find, but here is a list of common foreground subjects:

• Lakes
• Puddles
• Streams
• City buildings
• Street signs
• Road paint
• Fallen logs
• Crashing waves

One tip: Before you settle on a composition, scan the foreground carefully for distractions. Then do what you can to remove them (by adjusting your position, your focal length, or your camera angle).

7. Carefully determine your composition

I’ve emphasized the value of including a powerful foreground and a rainbow-enhancing background, but it’s also important to consider other key aspects of your compositions. In particular, pay attention to:

• Rainbow positioning. How you position the rainbow (and the rest of the landscape) within the frame can make or break the shot. Compositional guidelines like the rule of thirds can help you arrange the rainbow and the horizon line to create a balanced result.
• The rainbow endpoints. The rainbow will hit the “ground” at two points. These are natural areas of interest, so it’s essential to position them carefully within the frame. You may want to zoom in to emphasize one point of contact (and exclude the other). You might also want to change your own position so an endpoint lines up with some other object in the scene.
• Your focal length. If you have the time and the equipment, I encourage you to experiment with different focal lengths. Wide-angle lenses work great for rainbow photography and will produce some wonderful vista shots, but don’t forget that zooming in on a part of the rainbow (using a telephoto lens) can also lead to spectacular results. Look to emphasize points where the rainbow intersects with other objects or the ground.

8. Look for multiple rainbows

If you see one rainbow, you may be able to find a second – or at least another layer of rainbow that arcs over the first. If you can include both in the frame, you’ll often create extra interest, but be careful; you don’t want your composition to become too messy.

So before you back up to include that second rainbow in the frame, ask yourself: Will it actually add to the composition? And if the answer is “No,” consider excluding that second rainbow from the shot. Focus on making the more visible rainbow the focal point of your composition. Sometimes, less is more!

9. Try adding a polarizing filter

Polarizing filters help remove reflections and haze from the scene, and this can be hugely useful when shooting rainbows. So if you have a polarizer, try bringing it out, pointing your lens at the rainbow, and rotating the filter. See how it affects the resulting image.

In my experience, adjusting a polarizer will create different levels of color saturation, contrast, and reflections. This can help the rainbow stand out more, which is pretty much always a good thing.

A couple of items to note, however:

1. You can buy lots of cheap polarizers on websites like eBay, but they’ll often degrade image quality and cause optical issues. I’d really encourage you to invest in high-quality products. Yes, they may cost a decent amount, but they’ll also give you the best results.
2. Polarizers do reduce the volume of light hitting your camera sensor. While tripods are important for standard rainbow photography, if you’re going to be working with a polarizer, a tripod is absolutely essential.

10. Make sure you spend time post-processing

It’s important to get your images looking as good as possible in the field…

…but even the best photographers spend time post-processing each and every image they share. Why? Because post-processing has all sorts of useful applications. With a bit of editing, you can:

• Make the main subject stand out
• Emphasize (or deemphasize) certain colors
• Bring out detail throughout the scene
• Remove distracting elements, such as trash

In particular, I’d encourage you to use a basic editing program like Lightroom to boost the rainbow’s colors (try pushing up the saturation or even enhancing specific colors using the HSL panel). It’s often helpful to push up the contrast, and if you have the time, experiment with the tonal sliders (such as the Shadows and the Highlights).

Pay attention to your image’s exposure, and make sure that the sky and the foreground seem relatively balanced. You can use a graduated/gradient filter to darken the sky or brighten the foreground as required.

And if you enjoy post-processing, try to take your shots to the next level! Do some dodging and burning, add a vignette, and test out some color grading. See what you can create!

Rainbow photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to photograph rainbows – so you’re ready to head out with your camera and capture some gorgeous rainbow landscapes.

Just remember to use the right settings, carefully choose your composition, and don’t forget that tripod. With a bit of practice, you’ll be creating amazing shots in no time at all!

What type of rainbow photography do you plan to do? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below!

The post 10 Easy Tips for Gorgeous Rainbow Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Halloween offers some incredible sights, but capturing it all on camera can be tricky. Fortunately, with the right tips and techniques, it’s possible to take gorgeous photos that memorialize the spookiness, the crisp autumn air, and – above all – the fun!

In this article, I’m going to share plenty of advice for beautiful Halloween photography, including:

• Lighting tips for spooky photos
• Great places to take Halloween pictures
• Easy ways to photograph your kids and their adorable costumes
• Fun Halloween photoshoot ideas
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to pick up that camera on the scariest day of the year, then let’s get started!

1. Include spooky or atmospheric Halloween props

Halloween features plenty of objects, from pumpkins and costumes to skeletons, bats, and ghosts. 

So use them. If you’re doing a Halloween photoshoot, bring in a prop or two. Have the kids hold a ghost; have your spouse peek through a skeleton; have your pet wear a pumpkin costume and photograph them up close. You can work with scarier props (e.g., fake blood), you can stick to cuter props (e.g., pumpkins), or you can combine the two for cute and scary images.

This photo uses a creepy-looking jack-o’-lantern to add plenty of atmosphere:

Sometimes, as with the image above, the props alone can make great photos. You can capture beautiful shots of Halloween gravestones, houses decked out in bats and ghosts, and more. 

Don’t just take snapshots, though. Make sure you pay careful attention to composition (see the tips below) and lighting (again, see my additional tips), and do what you can to tell an interesting story with your camera.

2. Highlight a relevant point of interest

If you’re after great Halloween photography – spooky, cute, or anything in between – you should generally include a focal point, some key “hero” element that the viewer immediately prioritizes.

For instance, if you’re photographing your child in their costume, make them the center of attention. Ensure you’re working with a clean background (with no distractions whatsoever!) and a bare foreground. Adjust your camera settings to make your child’s face sharp and well-exposed.

Of course, you can always include secondary subjects or items in a photo. But they shouldn’t be the priority, and as soon as they begin to distract from the main subject, you should exclude them from your compositions. 

Check out this next spooky Halloween photo; the woman is the main subject, and the wine glass acts as a secondary subject:

The background is relatively clean, there are no distractions, and the viewer’s eye travels straight to the woman’s face, to the cup, and back. The image is also wonderfully Halloween-esque; check out the dark background, orange colors, and wonderfully scary atmosphere!

Bottom line:

Before hitting the shutter, ask yourself, “What is the focal point of this photo?” And do everything in your power to emphasize it.

3. Find the right location

While you can technically do Halloween photography anywhere, it often pays to find a location that matches the mood you want to create.

If you want to capture cute Halloween photos, for example, consider shooting:

• Among the leaves in your backyard
• In your kitchen
• At a Halloween party

If you want to capture scary Halloween photos, try shooting:

• In a basement
• In the middle of a forest
• In a neighborhood at night

(Of course, you should always make safety a priority; never put yourself in an uncomfortable situation simply to capture a scary photo.)

When planning a Halloween photoshoot, I encourage you to sit down and consider different location ideas. I’m betting you’ll come up with plenty of places to take Halloween pictures nearby – you simply need to do a bit of brainstorming!

4. Fill the frame with Halloween spirit

Halloween is a time of drama. And you can convey this in your images by getting in nice and close so that you fill the frame with your subjects.

If you’re photographing your child in a costume, make sure there are no boring, empty edges around the frame. Instead, zoom on in (or get in close) so every little detail is captured by your camera. 

No need to go overboard, though. Don’t go in so far that your lens can’t focus, and don’t get so close that the viewer doesn’t understand what the photo is about, either. Instead, identify your subject (see the previous tip!), make it the center of attention, and zoom on in.

One more thing: If your main subject doesn’t look Halloween-esque enough, consider spicing them up with additional decorations, costumes, trinkets, and the like. More Halloween is usually better!

5. Give subjects space to look into

Here’s a quick Halloween portrait photography tip that’ll ensure better compositions:

Before you take your images, note the direction of your subject’s face and eyes. Then adjust your camera framing until the subject has substantial room in front of their line of sight. 

It might seem weird, but it actually helps balance out the composition. It also adds a sense of dynamism, where the viewer is compelled to follow the subject’s gaze throughout the shot. (In fact, the approach even has a name: the rule of space.)

Here’s a nice example:

The two boys are looking downward, and the framing includes plenty of room near the bottom of the scene (note how their eyes have lots of space to look into!).

6. Find unconventional angles and foregrounds to add spookiness

Looking to do some spooky Halloween photography? Pay careful attention to this next tip.

You see, a great way to create that sense of holiday chill is via perspective. By getting down low – down in the dirt, in fact! – you’ll make your subject loom large over the viewer. The effect is especially powerful if you shoot with a wide-angle lens. 

Of course, you’ll also want to include scary props, such as bats, cauldrons, and ghosts. That way, you can create a creepy Halloween image, with your subjects appearing to emerge from the ground and stand high above the viewer.

Another quick tip: 

Try backing up to put an interesting foreground element in front of your subject. You don’t want to add anything distracting, of course. But a dark branch or two in front of the subject can do a lot to enhance the atmosphere.

7. Photograph the little details

It’s easy to get distracted by the flashy parts of Halloween. But it’s often when you take a step back, look around, and notice the smaller details that you’ll find the money shots. 

Halloween is filled with interesting little moments worthy of capture. There are:

• Decorations
• Pumpkin-carving fun
• Actual carved pumpkins
• People getting dressed up in costumes
• Lots of candy at the end of the night
• Sleeping kids at the end of parties and/or trick-or-treating
• Close-ups of food

Don’t let these moments pass you by. Instead, keep an eye out – and when you see a memory worth recording, do it. A few years from now, these intimate images will tell the real story of Halloween, and you’ll be so glad you captured them.

8. Don’t forget the group photos!

Halloween is a time for fun gatherings and parties, which means that you’ll have plenty of opportunities for group photos.

So break out your wider focal-length lenses, get everyone arranged in a group, and take some images. Consider finding a higher vantage point (if you’re indoors, try a stepping stool; if you’re outdoors, consider some steps or even a roof).

Of course, make sure everyone grabs a prop or two and puts on their costumes. And ask them all to make their scariest faces! A few fun Halloween photoshoot ideas include:

• Everyone huddled around a cauldron
• People all hiding in the bushes
• Everyone circled around a book, a gravestone, or a giant spider

9. Capture low-light silhouettes for a spooky effect

Think of Halloween, and the type of images that come to mind are dark and scary: candles in pumpkins, bats in the night, and mysterious cats walking about in the evening.

So why not try to create a few spooky Halloween photos of your own? It’s easier than you might think. You simply need to use a low-light silhouette technique, which will get you images like this:

Here’s how it works:

First, find a subject that makes a good silhouette. It should have clearly defined edges and should ideally be recognizable, like the cat in the photo above. 

Then wait until the sun has gone down and you have an orange, red, or yellow sky. Position yourself between the subject and the sunset, then crouch low until the subject is framed against the beautiful background.

You’ll want to keep your flash deactivated, and I recommend underexposing the image for a darker effect. Here are two ways you can do it:

• Increase your shutter speed, taking test shots as you go. You’ll probably want to start around 1/100s, depending on the level of darkness, then increase to 1/250s, 1/500s, and beyond. (Remember: Review each image immediately after hitting the shutter button!)
• Narrow your aperture (again, take plenty of test shots along the way). This will darken your photo, but it will also increase the depth of field, consequently sharpening the background, which can be good or bad, depending on your goals. 

Anyway, the idea is to get a relatively dark, moody image, so don’t worry about the shot looking too underexposed. Simply aim for a little bit of silhouette detail with a medium-bright background, and the results will look great.

10. Use flash gels for atmospheric Halloween photography

Here’s a clever Halloween photography idea that past readers have suggested: 

Find some sort of colored cellophane (orange, yellow, and red all work well), then place it over your flash. When you take a shot, the cellophane will act as a flash gel, changing the light color for a beautiful effect. 

(If you can’t find colored cellophane, just draw on clear cellophane with an orange marker!)

If you have a planned Halloween photoshoot, you’ll probably want to test this one ahead of time because you need to carefully apply the right density of cellophane (one sheet versus two or three, etc.). But when done right, the effect is absolutely marvelous and makes for some amazing Halloween photos. 

By the way, it doesn’t matter if you have a camera pop-up flash, a handheld off-camera flash, or a full studio setup. You can use this tip no matter your equipment; you’re bound to get gorgeous results!

11. Photograph the jack-o’-lanterns, too!

Jack-o’-lanterns are Halloween classics, and there’s nothing quite so satisfying as capturing a beautiful shot of a glowing pumpkin. So make sure to spend a little time with your camera pointed at a jack-o’-lantern or two!

Now, photographing jack-o’-lanterns can be tricky, because you need to capture both the pumpkin exterior and the interior glow, which is a bit of a tightrope walk between overexposure and underexposure. If you can, take a few photos with varying shutter speeds. And consider bracketing your exposures and blending using high dynamic range techniques in post-processing.

(If you do decide to use an HDR technique, I encourage you to mount your camera on a tripod; it’ll make the blending process far easier.)

12. Try some levitation photography

A levitation effect is pretty easy to pull off, and when you combine it with dark clothing and horror-style props, you’ll end up with creepy – even scary! – Halloween photos.

First, find a nice location that adds plenty of atmosphere, like a dark forest.

Make sure your subject is dressed up in sufficiently Halloween-esque clothing (witch and goblin costumes work great for this).

Bring some sort of supporting element, such as a stool, and ask your subject to stand – or lie – on top. Capture a photo with your subject in a spooky pose. Then remove the stool, have your subject stand off to the side, and capture a second (stool-free) image featuring only the background. Make sure to use the exact same settings (including the point of focus) as before.

When you get home, simply bring both files into Photoshop, mask out the stool, and you’ll have a perfect Halloween levitation photo!

13. Do some Halloween-style editing

While it’s always important to do your best while out shooting, you can majorly improve your Halloween photos with a bit of post-processing in Lightroom or Photoshop.

First, see if you can add to the spooky atmosphere by boosting the contrast and bringing down the blacks.

Then experiment with different color grading effects. For instance, you can use the Lightroom Color Grading panel to add greens to the shadows and oranges to the highlights. You can also adjust the white balance to create an oranger or bluer effect (both can look great, depending on what you want to create).

And if you want to go really wild, consider adding dark, grungy textures in Photoshop. That way, you can really sell the “scary” look!

Halloween photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

Some Halloween photography tips, Halloween photoshoot ideas, and just general advice to take your images to the next level.

So this Halloween, make sure you remember this advice. You’ll finish the night with some outstanding shots!

Now over to you:

Do you have any Halloween photo tips of your own? Do you have any Halloween picture ideas? What do you plan to photograph this Halloween? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 13 Tips for Spectacular (and Spooky!) Halloween Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

It may not seem like it, but zoos are great locations for photos. They present photographers with a huge variety of subjects (including plenty of animals and the people watching them).

That said, zoo photography isn’t without its challenges. If you want great shots at the zoo, you’ll need to overcome:

• Distance – Access to the animals is often very limited.
• Moving subjects – Animals rarely stay in one place for long!
• Tricky lighting – Indoor lighting, foliage, and enclosure roofs can cause problems.
• Cages and glass – Many zoos are improving how they contain their animals, but it’s still tough to shoot through cage materials and end up with a natural-looking result.

In this article, I explain how to handle each of these difficulties. I also share plenty of additional tips and tricks; that way, the next time you head to the zoo, you’ll be ready to capture pro-level photos of wildlife, birds, and even visitors.

Let’s get started.

1. Bring the right gear

To get great zoo photos, you’ll need to make careful gear choices. You won’t generally have the opportunity to get up close and personal with the animals, so a smartphone equipped with a standard wide-angle lens isn’t going to cut it.

Of course, your specific gear should depend on you and your preferences – do you want to capture more environmental shots, full-body shots, or even headshots? – but here are a few recommendations:

First, bring a DSLR or a mirrorless camera with decent autofocus capabilities. Animals tend to move around a lot, and it helps if you can track them from location to location. If your camera does a good job handling high-ISO levels, that’s even better.

You’ll also want to bring a longer prime or zoom lens. I’d recommend carrying a lens that extends to at least 200-300mm (bearing in mind sensor crop factors). A kit zoom, such as a 55-200mm unit, will work well, or you can take a more expensive 70-200mm f/4 or f/2.8 lens. That way, you’ll be able to capture detailed shots of the animals no matter their distance.

And if you have a macro lens, bring it along! It can be handy in a number of enclosures (such as a butterfly house).

Pro tip: Make sure you use your lens’s hood. It’ll help reduce or eliminate flare if you’re shooting into the sun, and it can also cut down on reflections when photographing through glass.

Finally, consider using a tripod or monopod. Depending on the weather and the light, you may find that some enclosures require slower shutter speeds, so the extra stability can come in handy.

2. Include a key point of interest

Most beginners, upon arriving at the zoo, start snapping away – but if you spend time really thinking about your composition, you’ll get much better results. In particular, make sure to include a single clear point of interest, the thing that the viewer should focus on above all else.

So before you start photographing an animal, ask yourself: What is it about this creature that interests me? What drew me to this animal? Does it have great color? Is it in a humorous pose? Does it have interesting surroundings?

Then use the information to help you compose the shot. Make your point of focus the centerpiece of the composition, and try to eliminate all other areas that might detract from the scene.

3. Get in close

The closer you can get to your subject, the more emotional, intimate, and beautiful your final photos will turn out. You’ll also be able to capture more detail, which is generally a good thing!

So whenever you get the opportunity, move in close. With animals in cages, this can be a challenge, and you’ll generally need to zoom with your lens rather than your feet. But do try to get as physically close to the animals as possible – without breaking any zoo rules, of course! – and use your lens’s longer focal lengths to create a tight composition around the animal’s body or even face.

Also, take advantage of situations where you can get physically close to the animals. Some zoos, for instance, have open-air aviaries, which offer all sorts of opportunities for stunning close-up bird photos.

4. Focus on the eyes

This zoo photography tip is a quick one, but it’s absolutely critical:

Make sure your camera consistently focuses on the subject’s eyes.

The eyes are, as they say, the window to the soul. If the eyes are sharp, then nailing sharpness throughout the rest of the frame becomes much less important – but if the eyes are soft, then the whole image is (generally) ruined.

So do what you can to get the eyes in focus. If your camera offers Animal Eye AF, test it out and see how well it works. Otherwise, carefully position your camera’s AF point right over the animal’s eyes.

That way, you’ll create a far more personal connection between the subject and the viewer!

5. Get down low

The more intimacy you can include in your images, the better – and a great way to create a sense of intimacy and closeness is to get down on your subject’s level.

If you’re photographing a giraffe or a camel, you can shoot from a standing height, of course. But if you’re capturing penguins, wolves, or small monkeys, you’ll want to get down on your knees or even lie flat against the ground.

Pay attention to the people around you – you don’t want to create a traffic hazard! – but don’t be afraid to look a little silly or even get dirty. Getting down low may not feel too comfortable, but it’ll give your shots punch!

6. Work to eliminate reflections

Shooting through glass is a real challenge, and if you can avoid it, you definitely should.

However, shooting zoo subjects without glass can be tough sometimes (and even impossible), so it’s important to know how to manage reflections when the need arises.

First, get as close to the glass as you can. The closer you get, the more the reflections will disappear. Try pushing the lens hood right up against the glass pane; if that’s not an option, cover the area between the lens and the glass with your hand (or even a jacket).

Also, photograph in areas that are less scratched and dirty. Give the glass a quick wipe with a cloth (assuming it’s permitted).

Finally, if you can’t eliminate reflections, try to work with them. Take a few steps back and incorporate the reflections into the shot. Yes, it can be tough to get this right, but when done well, it can make for some amazing images!

7. Work to eliminate cage metal

There’s nothing worse than trying to shoot through the wire or bars of a cage. Unless you take a careful approach, the metal will show up and your images will lose any sense of authenticity.

So what do you do?

First, whenever possible, avoid cages completely or try to find a wider opening to shoot through (such as larger gaps around gates).

But if you can’t avoid the metal, get as close as you can, position your lens so it’s shooting through an opening, use a longer focal length, and wait until the animal moves back away from the cage.

Then, if you use a wide aperture (such as f/2.8 or f/4), the cage will blur away, and it often won’t be visible in the final image!

8. Photograph the people

Yes, zoos are technically all about animals. But if you want to create some unique photos, capture people, too!

For instance, you can capture babies interacting with animals through the glass, folks with their faces pressed up against the exhibit windows, and much more! Look for the interesting reactions people have as they view the animals, then snap away with your camera.

This is often a good strategy when you’re faced with huge bars or dirty glass. You might not be able to capture a sharp shot of the animal on its own, but if you take a step back, you can include both the animal and some people in the same composition.

9. Look for humorous situations

Animals do the funniest things. So spend some time carefully watching the enclosures with your camera to your eye.

Then, when the monkey points at you, the giraffe picks its nose with its tongue, or when an emu pokes its head through the cage to steal something out of someone’s bag, you can hit that shutter button and secure a memorable image!

(You might also consider setting your camera to its burst mode. It’ll give you the best chance of nailing a split-second moment.)

10. Keep your shutter speed high

Animals can move quickly, leading to image blur – unless you keep your shutter speed fast enough.

I’d recommend using a shutter speed of at least 1/250s when dealing with slow-moving animals, and you should boost this to 1/500s, 1/1000s, or even higher as you encounter action. (Small birds flying through the air, for instance, often require shutter speeds of 1/2000s and beyond.)

It often helps to switch to Shutter Priority mode, which will let you select your desired shutter speed while your camera chooses a reasonable aperture for a good exposure. You can also shoot in Aperture Priority, but you’ll need to widen your aperture or boost your ISO until your camera chooses the shutter speed you want.

11. Plan your day

I’m a fairly spontaneous person, but when it comes to zoo photography, I’ve learned that it’s worth thinking ahead.

As soon as you arrive, make sure you grab a map and identify the animals you wish to add to your shot list. (You can also do this in advance if you want to save time.) Make note of any publicized feeding times, which can make for great action shots. And if it’s an option, ask a zoo keeper when your favorite animals are more active.

Another good strategy is to head to the gift shop and take a quick look at the postcards and picture books. These can offer a little inspiration and a few handy zoo photography ideas, which are always useful to have.

12. Be patient

When photographing at zoos, you’ll occasionally stumble upon animals in the perfect pose…

…but more often than not, you’ll need to spend time waiting for the money shot.

So once you pick out the animals you want to photograph, give yourself plenty of time to camp out at their enclosures. If waiting frustrates you, take a deep breath, and tell yourself that it’s worth sticking around for a good image.

With enough patience, you’ll see the animals in a variety of positions and with different expressions. And you’ll often get the chance to capture interesting behavior and poses, which can really take your zoo photos to the next level.

13. Think about the context

One of the best things about zoo photography is that you can get relatively close to the animals, which is obviously difficult to do in the wild.

A key challenge, however, is that the environment isn’t natural. On many occasions, enclosures will include fake rocks and trees, and you’ll often end up with distracting artificial elements in the backgrounds and foregrounds (e.g., fences).

So whenever possible, try to adjust your angle until natural-looking elements are included, such as grass, trees, and flowers.

And whenever distractions do present themselves, try using wide apertures (such as f/2.8 or f/4) to narrow the depth of field and throw the foregrounds and backgrounds out of focus.

You can also try zooming in to avoid distractions – or, if that isn’t an option, cropping later when editing.

Zoo photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

13 tips to help you capture amazing zoo photos! Just do what you can to eliminate reflections and cage metal, make sure you focus on the animals’ eyes, carefully choose your compositions, and – above all – be patient. You’re bound to come away with some fantastic shots.

What animals do you plan to photograph on your next zoo visit? Which of these tips will you use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 13 Tips for Stunning Zoo Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Everyone loves to capture plane-window photos; they’re perfect for social media, they tell a great story, plus they capture the excitement of traveling to an amazing photographic destination.

But taking photos out of a plane window isn’t as simple as pointing your camera and tapping the shutter. Instead, if you want to create beautiful, sharp, well-exposed shots, you must use the right settings, wait for the right moment, and create a compelling composition.

It’s all in this article: The six tips and techniques you absolutely must know for amazing out-the-window results. That way, the next time you’re flying 30,000 feet above the ground, you’re ready to immortalize the experience!

Let’s dive right in.

1. Keep the lens away from the window

When you’re shooting out the window, it’s tempting to put your camera’s lens right up against the glass. After all, in addition to cutting down on unwanted reflections, this approach steadies the camera, right?

Not quite. While pressing the lens on the glass can help with reflections, it actually causes your camera to shake more, not less. Unfortunately, planes vibrate as they fly, and when the plane window touches a part of your lens, it’ll transmit those vibrations straight to the camera sensor (which will produce lots of image blur).

The better strategy is to keep your camera held slightly back. Tuck in your elbows, and if your lens or camera offers image stabilization, make sure the technology is active. To reduce reflections, attach a hood to the lens and position your setup as close to the window as you can get it without any contact.

(If you don’t have a lens hood, you can cup your free hand around the end of the lens or you can cover your camera with a shirt or jacket.)

While avoiding contact between the lens and the window will reduce camera shake, it won’t eliminate it entirely. But if your shutter speed is fast enough, this won’t matter; the split-second shutter will capture a sharp shot before the shake has time to cause problems. So boost your shutter speed if you can (and don’t be afraid to increase your ISO to ensure you capture a balanced exposure).

2. Switch to manual focus

Cameras often get confused when shooting through glass, especially dirty and/or scratched glass. They try to focus on the glass instead of the subject outside, which is generally not what you want.

So if your camera has the option, switch to its manual focusing mode. Then slowly adjust the focus point until you get your main subject tack-sharp.

It can help to take a test shot, then zoom in on your camera LCD. That way, you can check the focus and make adjustments accordingly.

If your setup doesn’t offer a manual focusing option, try putting your camera right up against the glass and focusing on your subject. (If your lens is close enough, the glass shouldn’t pose much of a problem.) Then lock the focus, and bring your camera back into position. While shifting the camera will technically cause the plane of focus to shift, as long as your subject is reasonably far from the plane window, this won’t make a huge difference, and you’ll still end up with a sharp shot!

(Pro tip: If you use the focus-lock method shared above but you keep capturing out-of-focus shots, try narrowing your aperture to f/8 or so. The resulting deep depth of field should help compensate for the focusing error.)

3. Make sure to shoot early in the flight

In my experience, the handful of minutes just after takeoff is the best time to shoot through the plane window. Why? A couple of reasons.

First, once you’ve been flying for a while, the windows tend to ice up or collect condensation, which will decrease image sharpness and make it tough to focus. When the plane has been on the ground for an extended period, however, the condensation and ice evaporate, giving you a clear(ish) window to work through.

Second, when you’re just taking off, you’ll see a huge variety of subjects. You can capture the airport from above (and use it to tell the story of your departure), you can capture rows of houses and cars (which often look delicate and even cute), and you can shoot beautiful buildings (if the airport is reasonably close to a city).

But as the plane gains altitude, you’ll get too high to capture lots of interesting subjects, and you’ll struggle to create a compelling composition.

Of course, you can often find interesting subjects again when the plane starts to land – but why not maximize your time behind the lens and photograph during both takeoff and landing?

4. Wait for the plane to bank

Once the plane is relatively high in the sky, it can be pretty difficult to take shots of the landscape far below. You may need to position your camera at a steep angle, which can increase the likelihood of reflections and will limit your compositional options.

Fortunately, planes don’t just sit in the sky; every so often, they bank, which – when in the right direction – will give you an opportunity to capture the ground.

This banking generally happens soon after takeoff and just before landing, and it doesn’t last long, so you need to be ready. Carefully set and lock the exposure, and make sure to lock your focus, too (it’s fine to tilt your camera so you can focus on the ground).

Then, when the bank begins, start photographing with abandon. (Your camera’s burst mode can be helpful.) Don’t stop shooting until the bank is finished!

5. Turn off your flash

Planes tend to be dark (especially if you’re flying at night), so you might be tempted to turn on your flash. (Alternatively, your camera may sense the limited ambient light and activate the flash automatically.)

Regardless, make sure to manually switch your flash off.

For one, a flash certainly won’t illuminate the area outside the plane window; no flash is strong enough to have an impact beyond 20 feet or so. And a flash will cause plenty of unpleasant glare and create blinding window reflections, so you won’t be able to see out the window and your shots will be ruined.

If your shots are turning out dark, you have a few options. You can widen your lens aperture, you can boost your ISO, you can add positive exposure compensation, or you can lower your shutter speed. If you’re on a long flight, you might also simply consider waiting until things get lighter!

6. Include points of interest in your compositions

Scenes outside plane windows can often seem quite spectacular to the eye, but when you try to capture the beauty, you end up with images that are just…boring.

This is because great photos generally need an anchor point – something that catches the viewer’s attention and gets them to engage with the scene.

So instead of just pointing and shooting, look for a point of interest that draws the eye. This can be anything: a cloud formation, another plane, a coastline, or even a setting sun. For a creative result, consider incorporating elements of the plane itself, such as a wing or an engine. And if you want to make your shots even more unique, try to incorporate elements from inside the plane, such as a person’s face, a hand, or a drink table.

That way, you’ll end up with a much more compelling image!

How to take photos out of a plane window: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to capture plenty of stunning out-the-window shots on your next flight!

So remember the tips I’ve shared. Practice setting up your camera in advance. And have fun!

Where will you be flying next? What images do you plan to take? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Take Photos Out of a Plane Window (6 Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.